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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rosy I T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Velvet Hammer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: D. Hare, D. Michael, 1978
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: Tony B on May 20, 2001

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Joe Huggins on Velvet Hammer - 1981 No Cams! Pho...

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  • Description 

    Go up the West Face of Redgarden Wall on the trail, just past the second set of Railroad Tie stairs. From the top of these stairs, look right to the wall and down a short distance, to where a medium-sized conifer sits on a ledge just a short scramble above the ground. This is at the start of Velvet Hammer.

    P1: From the tree, start up through a flake that leans up and left and forms a crack through the roof, just 10 feet or so off of the ledge. Jam and cling out through this roof, protecting the crack with cams (5.10c). The area is lichenous and sharp- wear tape gloves to avoid mashing your hands and maybe a pair of goggles to keep the $hit out of your eyes. The moves are fun, but this first pitch really needs cleaned. Oh, and try to stay out of the tree if you fall. Continue up the crack to a big sloping ledge. Once on the ledge above, you can build a lousy belay, or continue up on the second pitch, which I recommend.

    P1 can be avoided by climbing the first pitch of The Slimy Spoon (5.8)

    P2: There are a series of 3 very similar looking dihedrals up and left of you. Climb up the right side of the right-most of these (5.9) and past it to another big ledge. Move up and left on the ledge and belay below the big arete up above.

    P3: Go left around the arete and climb some crack and face to reach the top of the Lower Ramp. (5.8-)


    As standard rack with a full set of cams. The fall potential is not serious, but at the crux of the first pitch, it would be possible to get snagged into the tree just behind you. Thus, place a "thin hands" cam well overhead prior to making these moves.

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