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Black Velvet Wall
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American Flesh Dance (Combination of The Flesh plus American Ghost Dance) T 
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Smooth as Silk T 
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Spark Plug T 
Steel Monkey T 
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Texas Hold 'Em T 
Texas Tower Direct T 
Velveeta T 
Velvet Tongue, The T 
Yellow Brick Road T,S 

Velveeta 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Harrison & Wendell Broussard
Page Views: 1,096
Submitted By: chad umbel on Mar 27, 2007

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Description 

Velveeta is a nice variation off of Sour Mash. The 4th pitch is the crux of the route with a nice 90 degree corner that is plumb vertical to slightly overhanging.


Location 

Start on Sour Mash and break right out to a lone bolt after you get to the ledge just below the third pitches' anchor and belay. Then climb up and right (5.9) with decent small stoppers and brass to protect the moderately thin face. Continue climbing up and right toward the obvious left facing corner which marks the routes crux pitch. Watch out for loose rock. This part is easy but run out. The rest of the route protects well.

Belay just below the dihedral off of a gear anchor. Sort of funky anchor pro if you don't have a 4 inch Camalot. There is some tatt on the right side of the corner, but it looks very old and supect. Climb straight up the beutiful corner until you see a bolt to the left. Catch a rest then bust out left and then back right (5.11) to gain the next belay which is semi-hanging off of decent bolts but bad webbing. This corner is the money pitch, with a really cool crux that protects with the bolt which was placed on lead by Harrison.

Once settled in at the belay with big air below you, crank some steep hard moves right off of the belay (5.10+) with an old suspect quarter inch bolt for pro to gain easy ground for the rest of the pitch. Continue up the obvious crack with face holds until it's possible to break out right onto a right leaning ramp. Climb this then go right again up to a slung scrub oak. We belayed on a nicer ledge to the right off of good cams.

After a few beers, scramble out right to the base of the elephants' trunk on epi. and rapp off of the fixed rope that's threaded through some rock to the left of the trunk, although it's possible to climb up to the top of the trunk and rap from bolts. Continue rappeling down the epineprhine chimneys and scramble back to your pack at the base of Sour Mash.

Nice route Wendell and Richard!


Protection 

Single set of cams to #3 camalot, single set of stoppers and offsets including small brass, and two 60 meter ropes.



Comments on Velveeta Add Comment
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By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 7, 2010

While following the crux corner pitch, my partner broke the crux hold. Still climbable, but probably harder now.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Sep 7, 2010

sorry, my mom gave me a lot of milk when i was little... and cookies are good...

IMO: I felt PG-13 may be more accurate than R and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the bolt protecting the final pitch crux

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 17, 2010

Heard a rumor that this is now about 11+/12-.

By Josh Janes
Jan 19, 2012

I'd say solid 11d now.