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Velociraptor 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Gibson, Jeff Achey, Amber Johnstone
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,635
Submitted By: bagwag on Apr 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Moritz about a third of the way up Velociraptor.

Description 

Start on small horizontal ledges to the first bolt. Then follow a discontinuous crack system up changing corners. The technical crux is at a right-facing corner near the 4th bolt. About halfway up, continue by pulling over a bulge into a left-facing dihedral, and step out left on slab under another mini-bulge. The final slab is protected by 3 bolts to a corner with a layback crack and stemming to the anchor. The route is continuous and LONG but has 2-3 decent resting spots along the way. It is well-protected at the cruxes.

Location 

The route is on South-facing prow/buttress near the beginning of the Main Elk crag proper, kind of where Pup Tent ends and the Main Elk routes start. Its location is between T-Rex (right) and Fried Lizard Gizzard which is a left-facing, bolted, dihedral crack (left). Other routes routes nearby are Patchouli, Southern Fried Chicken, (to the West) and Limp Lizards, around the corner, (to the East).

There is a connector-trail made of rock steps (thanks, Brian G.) leading uphill to the buttress that forks right from the Main Elk canyon trail before entering the canyon.

The hike is about a 15-20 minute jaunt from the parking area.

Protection 

14 bolts, not including the anchor. The anchor has Fixe rings. Yes, it can be done with 60m rope.


Photos of Velociraptor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Benge on the new 5.11c finish out right (&quo...
Mike Benge on the new 5.11c finish out right (&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: A winter day out with da boyz at Main Elk Crag.
A winter day out with da boyz at Main Elk Crag.
Rock Climbing Photo: Long!
Long!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian on the upper section.
Ian on the upper section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Velociraptor!
Velociraptor!

Comments on Velociraptor Add Comment
Show which comments
By bagwag
Aug 21, 2013

Forgot to mention, thanks to Jeff Achey for his help in scoping and ticking bolt placements on Velociraptor. Jeff had his eye on this line for years but graciously, if not covertly, inspired me to bolt it.
By Lynn S
Oct 26, 2013

This route is outstanding!
By James Hicks
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route! Definitely a little sustained, but you do get a couple of good rests. The top was a bit of a waterfall when we climbed it, but it seems that is probably normal if it has snowed a fair amount recently. Best route I have got on at Elk Creek so far.
By amberjohnstone
Jan 23, 2016

Get ready for a long, fun route! Thoughtful and varied, this route has it all and is the best at the prow and may be the best of the grade in the area.

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