Veiny is a fairly isolated rock as far as Rushmore formations go. Until just recently, there was only one bolted route on it (Existential Angst, 5.10). Now, it has at least six bolted routes, at least one trad route, and an extra set of anchors for a toprope climb up a steep groove. The ratings of routes on this rock go from 5.6 and 5.7 up to ~5.10+.
There are a few ways to get to Veiny. One way to get to this rock is to follow the prominent trail that leads into the Chopping Block area from the parking lot. Follow this up the hill until it is possible to head to the west (right) around Wrinkled Rock. Contour around this, then pass Razorback and Stinger on the right before reaching Veiny.
The second way is to look for a trail just behind the outhouse at the Wrinkled Rock parking area. Follow this to the road, cross, and then continue in more a less a straight path for a short distance to Veiny.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Veiny:
Hail Betty is a fun, clean new route to the right of Existential Angst. This is the right most bolted line on the Northwest face of Veiny. The start is the crux which climbs a small overhang on good holds to the first bolt. Climb through the 5 bolts to the rap anchors. After the second bolt, the route moves to the right to climb the fun arete.The upper part of the route is the right arete in the photo....[more]Browse More Classics in SD
Can we have some clarification of what is what here from all you old-schoolers? I am under the impression that Veiny is the first major rock one comes to when walking up from the Wrinkled Rock parking area (the trail that starts behind the outhouse), and is the one that is mostly circular as viewed from the top. One approaches on the trail and Veiny is on the left, with the schist (or whatever) bottom, and a hard overhanging crack that starts about halfway up in a small dirty cave-like hole, pulls over a buldge, into finger crack in right facing dihedral. Anchors on top for TR. Up the trail further, the next rock is Stinger (shaped kinda like a hot-dog from top view), which contains some new work from Mike Nona, several bolted climbs on the north(?) side that are belayed from a gully that runs halfway along the base of Stinger, then opens up on the trail side. Is this correct? I have seen old maps that call this rock Veiny and call Razorback Stinger. What is the crack on Veiny? I tried to climb it one day and fell off into the tree. It was dirty and greasy and I found no protection until I got to the cave. Any help?
That crack is dirty, but good. 5.10+/5.11- or so, I thought. Makes for an interesting top-rope. Not sure if it's been done on lead. Fun--once you get over how dirty it is and suss out the moves. There's a 5.8 around the corner that is super fun. And then you walk around to the stuff you were talking about that Mike was doing. As far as names go, keep searching; I have yet to hear what they are called.
PS. I am of absolutely no help...you're welcome. :)
I'm still confused as to which formation is Veiny. There is a new map out that I picked up at Adventure Sport showing Nona's new climbs that is labeling Stinger Rock (or what I thought was Stinger) as "Veiny". Isn't Veiny the first formation you come to when walking in from Wrinkled Rock parking? Thanks, Eric
The finger crack on the West face of Veiny (the N-most formation on the Chopping block ridge) is "Baby Please Don't Go". FA by Lewis Bros. Did the second ascent with Rusty on a frigid day, and have fond memories of icicles and frost in the "cave". Also a vague recollection of placing a tricam with a completely numb hand. It was named for a precarious foot cam in the cave that let you lean out and get started on the real business.
Hope I can clear some things up. The crack that Erik is talking about with the cave like pod is on the formation called North Park Rock. The crack has been led (FA Rusty Lewis). No name was given to it. North Park Rock has 4 other routes. To the left of the crack are two bolted routes, the first, starting directly off the trail is "Pull Toys" 5.10. The second route left of the crack starts in the notch above "Pull Toys" and contains 4 bolts "FIrst Date" 5.7. To the right of the crack is the super fun 5.8 "Just Jugs". Next to "Just Jugs" is "Fintastic" 5.7. Moving up the trail, the next rock is Veiny. Veiny contained one route when we started our new routes. "Existential Angst" 5.10 was put up by Chris Stover and climbs 4 bolts up a water chute. Four routes are to the left of "E. A."and start in the narrow gully. First route is called "Groovin" 5.10 6 bolts, next we have "BABOB" (big assed boys on bulges) 5.10 4 bolts. The four bolt route on the edge of the chimney is "Dirty Little Secrects" 5.7 (easier if you use the left wall). On the far left is tne short 3 bolt route "Tenuous" 5.10. To the right of "E. A." is the 5 bolt "Hail Betty" 5.9. To the right of "Hail Betty" is a chimney and an overhung blocky face of huge quartz with a small finger crack up high - "Baby Please Don't Go". Moving right we come to a steep buttress with the 7 bolt "BB" (budda boys) 5.7. Next route right is "Slap Happy" 5.10 7 bolts. Next route is "Broken Beliefs" 5.9+/5.10- 6 bolts. The route to the left of the chimney is "Burly Buttress" 5.10 5 bolts. To the right of the chimney is "Elephants with Yellow Bandanas" 5.10 6 bolts (the roof is not the crux). On the face to the right of "E. Y. B." is the trad route "Balls and Braun" 5.7. Follow the small incipent cracks(that take micro nuts well) to the hand crack that goes over the roof to the right. And finally we come to "Beyond Beauty" 5.6 4 bolts (the most easterly facing route on the formation). Note: Both formations have walk ups that allow you to be able to toprope all routes. Have fun, be safe and please don't litter. Happy New Year! Michael