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Veins of Glory S 

Veins of Glory 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ron Cotman, Dave Bale
Page Views: 1,157
Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Approaching the roof on Veins of Glory.

Description 

Veins of Glory chases a pair of quartz intrusions to a large roof and is the first bolted route left of Milky Way. Interesting, steep climbing up directional holds and side pulls off the ground lead to a solid and well-protected crux at the roof. Finding your way around the roof and getting established on the slab above is a delicate affair-- the holds seem to totally disappear just when you most need them. Once on the slab, smear up easier terrain to the anchor.

Protection 

7 bolts to chains. The first bolt is slightly high, and I have seen people place a supplemental piece. Better to get a spot and stay on the rock.


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By Aaron Hartig
Aug 18, 2010

Fun route. small roof was great, gotta love fingernail mono
By DrApnea
From: Wenatchee, WA
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought the single finger single pad pocket was a bit overstated, but it really is a single finger, single pad pocket above the roof to balance you up. Fun route, well protected roof crux. Lower crux is reaching the first bolt. Small gear can help keep it tame.