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Vedauwoo - Walt's Wall
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By RichieRich
Apr 24, 2014
Summit Batman and Robin

Hello all,
I finally learned to lead trad this past weekend, and feel pretty comfortable on 5.4 and 5.5 at RRG. My girlfriend and I will be spending a weekday in Vedauwoo in early June, and we were hoping to get in a couple of climbs. Walt's Wall seems that it would be perfect being an easier multi-pitch and fixed belays. My rack is pretty sparse, so I was wondering what pro would be necessary for this route (I'm open to other routes as well)? I am planning to purchase some more gear before our trip, and I currently have C4: .5-3, and BD stoppers 4-13.

Also, if Walt's Wall is too busy, as I don't want to feel rushed or piss off others for taking my sweet ass time (which I will need), we were thinking on heading to beehive buttress to do some sport... any thoughts?
Thank you ahead of time!


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Apr 24, 2014
Chillin' at City of Rocks

As a general rule of thumb at the Voo you typically encounter some OW on almost every route. As a beginner leader you may want to supplement your rack with a #4 and a #5.
If you choose wisely you may be ok with your rack. Keep in mind that the grades at the Voo can be spicy and you often have to build a trad anchor at the top.
Good luck and have fun. The Voo is a very special place.


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By Sagar Gondalia
From Golden
Apr 24, 2014
Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, below Camp Schurman.

Ed's crack is awesome, but you'll want to save your #3 for the top. Both the midway and top will require you to build anchors as well. The rack you have will do you just fine on that route though. The voo is a great place for passive pro. If it's crowded (Ed's is one of the few places at the voo you might have to wait for a party) you could jump over to the clamshell and do the sport routes there (5.5, 5.7, 5.9). Beehive buttress is also a nice place to spend a day for moderate sport climbing.

Avoid trying to lead Satterfield's with your current rack. Although it isn't actually OW, it requires wider gear to protect well than you currently own.

The voo is indeed a wonderful, and special place. Poke around on MP and check out some of the moderate multipitch climbs on Valley Massif as well. Those are wonderful.


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By Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Apr 25, 2014
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

The good news is gear placements there are straightforward so since you are new to placing gear you shouldn't have to much trouble. However, as was previously stated, the ratings can feel hard if you aren't an offwidth aficionado. There are routes that dont require offwidth techniques but you can't go the Vedauwoo and not at least get a taste.

I was once told that if it says "classic" in the guidebook, take that as a sign of hard climbing to come.

We did Mother 1 (5.8?) The book said "follow 5.4 offwidth to a 5.8 handcrack to finish." I bout puked, fell and shit my pants! Okay so im exaggerating a bit but it was hard as crap for my 2nd offwidth, and way harder feeling that 5.4.

I never climbed at Walts Wall but at Nautilus I would recomend "Cornelius". Its a 5.5 that requires very little or no offwidthing. Very short however.


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By rob.calm
From Loveland, Colorado
Apr 26, 2014
Mother #1 on the Nautilus at Vedauwoo. Rob is calm on this happy offwidth

I’m assuming you’re looking for routes through 5.5 maybe up to 5.6. A short way to the left of Walt’s Wall Route is Foolishness, a splendid 2-pitch 5.4 (some may argue that the short offwidth section is 5.6). A #5 Camalot protects the offwidth. The old bolt on the exit has been replaced. Easy Jam (5..4) on the northwest side of Nautilus is a nice first climb for Vedauwoo wide cracks as well as Hide-Away-Chimney (5.5) on Holy Saturday. A nice learning crack is Glenn’s First Name (5.4) on Glen Dome. On Blair III the Notch Climbs (5.4 to 5.6) are good for learning to place gear. Once past these, the grainy climbs Amaranth, Barley, etc. (5.6 to 5.7+) on Plumb Line Crag are similarly good climbs for learning about cracks and placing gear.

Rob.calm


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By Jim C.
From Denver, CO
Apr 27, 2014
high on Icarus

As a beginner, you may feel a little short of gear if you have only a single set of cams and stoppers, but that is relative to your skill level. It's a good point that probably three of your pieces will be used for the anchor midway.

I think slung/corded (not wired) hexes are a great rack supplement up to 4", but others will disagree. They are a little harder to place.

From Walt's Wall, the Hideaway Chimney is a fun, funky easy route about 20 minutes hike west, and the Fall Wall is very close by and has several easy bolted routes and one super easy trad route.


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By RichieRich
Apr 27, 2014
Summit Batman and Robin

Thank you all very much for your replies! They all seem like feasible options within my comfort/skill level. I'll have to do a little more research on nautilus, but no matter where we end up it's going to be amazing and fun doing some real crack climbing!


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By KevinCO
From Loveland, CO
Apr 27, 2014

RichieRich wrote:
Thank you all very much for your replies! They all seem like feasible options within my comfort/skill level. I'll have to do a little more research on nautilus, but no matter where we end up it's going to be amazing and fun doing some real crack climbing!


Have fun! You will be amazed by Vedauwoo. Don't forget the sports tape (search youtube for hand taping techniquies), knee pads, and mosquito repellant.

Also, realize that Vedauwoo is on a divide and creates orographic weather...a few pufffy cumulus moving in from the west mushroom into spectacular storms.

And listen to Rob, he wrote the best guide books for Vedauwoo:

'Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo'

www.amazon.com/Heel-Toe-Greater-Vedauwoo-Wyoming/dp/09640645>>>

& 'Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo'

www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Vedauwoo-Wyoming-Medicine/dp/09>>>


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By Derek Wehrle
Apr 28, 2014

RichieRich wrote:
Hello all, I finally learned to lead trad this past weekend, and feel pretty comfortable on 5.4 and 5.5 at RRG. My girlfriend and I will be spending a weekday in Vedauwoo in early June, and we were hoping to get in a couple of climbs. Walt's Wall seems that it would be perfect being an easier multi-pitch and fixed belays. My rack is pretty sparse, so I was wondering what pro would be necessary for this route (I'm open to other routes as well)? I am planning to purchase some more gear before our trip, and I currently have C4: .5-3, and BD stoppers 4-13. Also, if Walt's Wall is too busy, as I don't want to feel rushed or piss off others for taking my sweet ass time (which I will need), we were thinking on heading to beehive buttress to do some sport... any thoughts? Thank you ahead of time!


I spend a lot of time at the Voo learning trad.

Walt's Wall:
Ed-s: classic two pitch, fun offwidth (easy) finish, with several slabby variations. Belays on gear. First pitch has a very commiting R+ move where you mustn't fall, but it's over soon.

Foolishness: 3 pitches to left of Ed's, takes zig zag path up formation. First pitch has awkward mantle, and a harder than you think offwidth. My fist trad multipitch.

Walt's Route: 3 pitches, first pitch is probably best beginner lead on the wall, the following two are mostly slabby traverses. On busy days, expect people rapping past you. This is the popular descent rap for the entire wall.

All of these routes can be done with nothing bigger than a #4 cam. (Locals will do ed's with all stoppers, or even run out p1 with only one piece).



Walt's is a great spot, but I would also reccommend Poland Hill, and Crystal Freeway areas. Both have classics, and are much less busy than the Nautilus which is always flooded. If you do go to Poland HIll, be sure to Top Rope Fantasia, and experience the humbling Vedauwoo 5.9


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 28, 2014
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Derek Wehrle wrote:
...Both have classics, and are much less busy than the Nautilus which is always flooded.



Flooding is the least of your worries on the Nautilus.


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By KenH307
From Laramie, WY
Apr 29, 2014

Walt's Wall is a good beginner lead, in fact it was my first lead on gear. With that said, you may run into people rapping down the rout as is mentioned above, and if this is your grade the upper slab might leave you less than psyched.

I would pass on the Beehive if you only have one day. It's a fine crag, but not very indicative of Vedauwoo. Good options abound at Blair including Le Pétit Abre (the first pitch is a truly pleasant hand crack that goes at 5.6, and you can take the second pitch variation Nick's Loose Flake at soft 5.7). At Blair III, you can check out Go Left Old Man (I prefer the variation that finishes to the right). There are also a couple routes that you can top-rope easily on that formation. Poland Hill is another nice area with a pleasant hike (it can get a bit windy though). Check out Kim (5.6 and can be lead with a very sparse rack. There is another 5.6 around the corner climber's left of Kim, and Sugar Crack is fun at 5.7.

Having a #4 would be nice if you're looking to purchase more gear.

Finally, after that novel, I would urge you to spend more than one day at the Voo if at all possible. It's an awesome place. If you decide you want a local partner for a day (or two) shoot me a PM on here, I can often climb on weekdays and have a decent rack for the area.

Cheers!


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