Begin at the base of an obvious right-arching crack that narrows to a seam just below the top. Initially the climbing is easy in the hand sized crack but quickly becomes more demanding as the crack narrows to finger width. The sustained crux section is protected by #00 - #1 TCU's or small stoppers / brass. Technical footwork on thin edges and stamina is necessary to place gear. A committing mantle move (5.10-) out of the seam to the top adds excitement to this J-Tree classic! The descent is a walk off to the east down a gully system with several ledges.
This beautiful crack / face climb requires many cams to 2.5" - especially 1/2" to 1". Very small to medium stopper placements also exist. Two bolts with hangers can be used to set up a belay at the top.
|By C Miller|
Apr 3, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
There was a stunning photo in Mountain Magazine (remember that?) of this route not long after the FA. A spectacular and memorable line in a beautiful location. Four stars out of five.
Dec 20, 2008
Well worth the beautiful hike out there. I believe it took us two or three hours when we went and we got lost in the dark on the way back. Striking line in a very cool setting.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 22, 2008
If it took you 2 hours, you were definitely lost. About a 30min approach from Split Rock parking.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 23, 2009
I have not gotten on this route, but it is definitely off the beaten path. We hiked out to it (guided by the old fellow in the photo here), and after a LOT of missed turns, boulder hopping, and bushwhacking, we got to Vector. It looked amazing, but unfortunately it was almost dark by that time. I really hope to get back to it.
Feb 7, 2010
finally made it out this way. took all of 30 minutes to get to the base, first try. not difficult to find at all. great route!!! although, i blew the onsight (frozen sausages at the beginning of the locker fingers made me believe i was going to fall and RIP my finger off)... oh well, the story of my life.
great pro the whole way, just a little stressful getting it in and clipped through the last 20 feet. But if you have a handful of small cams (blue mastercam to 00) you can place anywhere you want in the crux section... assuming you can make the stance work for you.
the mantle, although intimidating, is a non issue and not hard at all. just pull, push, and press it out and you are done...
|By Phil Esra|
Dec 22, 2013
Took me a lot of wandering and head scratching to find--at least a couple of hours, if I remember right.
Dec 27, 2013
The bonus of getting lost on the approach is that the terrain out there is really cool. I remember a dry creek bed with a bunch of marble-polished rock in it that was pretty amazing. On the way out I impaled my knee on a large cactus in the dark and we rejoined the highway about a mile from our cars. The route was pretty mellow relative to those shenanigans!