||Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||FA 1963 Sean Hayes, Joe Kelsey, Dave Ingalls. FFA 1965 Layton Kor, Dick Williams|
|Page Views: ||540|
|Submitted By: ||ericcr on Sep 27, 2011|
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|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
V.D. is an easily top-roped problem directly below the 10,000 Restless Virgins tat anchor. It ascends a finger crack on the opposite wall- the cave side of Dick's Prick Pinnacle.
The starting moves (either way) are interesting and the crack requires at least one legitimate crack move. It's worth trying.
Start at the low point of the gulley beneath 10,000 and Girls Just Want to Have Fun, ten feet left of 10,000. Boulder up to slopey, small ledge (or chimney up a few moves.) Follow finger crack straight up to the top of the pinnacle.
There is sometimes a webbing rappel anchor on top of the pinnacle (none as of 2013 - see comment). The only downclimbing options are fifth class.
The boulder start is unprotected. The finger crack accepts gear the rest of the way.
May 21, 2013
I topropped this the other day to gain the top of the pinnacle for vanity purposes (photographing my second on Restless Virgins).
It's actually a solid route that would take bomber gear except for the unprotectable and challenging first half. It also has moves significantly harder than Restless Virgins--including some finger jams, and the 10- grade is a fantastic sandbag. As of this date there's no anchor of any kind on the pinnacle summit.
Jun 25, 2013
The route Dick's Prick was added in June 2013, and notes an anchor on top of the pinnacle.