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VD (Very Direct) Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arched Demon S 
Follower’s Folly T,S 
Lower Bolt Route S 
Overhanger S 
Reqiuem S 
Rupert The Bear S 
Rurp Rip-off S 
Slot Machine T,S 
Spike the Punch S 
Tenacious S 
Tree Corner T,S 
Upper Bolt Route S 
Velcro S 
Water Cracks T,S 

VD (Very Direct) Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.412, -117.8573 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,636
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009
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VD wall is the large north-facing formation on the south side of Devil’s Punch Bowl. There are many single pitch routes as well as several multi-pitch routes. Most routes are well-bolted, if you don’t mind homemade hangers. But we found the old bolts and hangers to be quite solid and not an issue. Although most of the climbing on VD wall is face climbing, there are a few trad lines that tend to be bolted, as the weaknesses are shallow or flaring and don’t take pro well or often. Some routes have walk-offs but most can be rappelled from chain anchors. Also, there are intermediate chain anchors on most multi-pitch routes. The walk-off is a bit adventurous and entails scrambling down to the south and east, then hiking east until you reach the bottom of the hill and can turn left. Follow the trail back to the creek, then back upstream to VD wall.

Getting There 

This is the first and obvious wall you reach when taking the trail into the South Area. It rises directly up from the south side of the creek.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for VD (Very Direct) Wall:
Slot Machine   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tree Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
Water Cracks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 50'   
Rurp Rip-off   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Overhanger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Velcro   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Follower’s Folly   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 180'   
Lower Bolt Route   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Spike the Punch   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rupert The Bear   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Arched Demon   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in VD (Very Direct) Wall

Featured Route For VD (Very Direct) Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Constine leading Rupert The Bear 5.11bc

Rupert The Bear 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13  CA : High Desert : ... : VD (Very Direct) Wall
The crux is about 35 feet up passing an overhang on the left. After the crux it's 25 ft up and to the right of sustained 5.11 climbing. This route has two new bolts I hope don't get removed making it much safer. The last move to a solid two bolted anchor is also a crux move....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of VD (Very Direct) Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the short slab, east end of VD wall.
Climbers on the short slab, east end of VD wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: VD wall from the lookout.
BETA PHOTO: VD wall from the lookout.

Comments on VD (Very Direct) Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eamon Doyle
From: Sierra Madre, CA
Jan 3, 2012
Was here on 1/3/2012. The creek was running, but the area was dry and quite clean. A lot of the 5.8 climbs are greatly assisted by bringing some cams, because the climbs to the left of the cave don't have bolts early on.

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