VD (Very Direct) Wall Rock Climbing
Best Seller 5.12a Attitude Wall
VD wall is the large north-facing formation on the south side of Devils Punch Bowl. There are many single pitch routes as well as several multi-pitch routes. Most routes are well-bolted, if you dont mind homemade hangers. But we found the old bolts and hangers to be quite solid and not an issue. Although most of the climbing on VD wall is face climbing, there are a few trad lines that tend to be bolted, as the weaknesses are shallow or flaring and dont take pro well or often. Some routes have walk-offs but most can be rappelled from chain anchors. Also, there are intermediate chain anchors on most multi-pitch routes. The walk-off is a bit adventurous and entails scrambling down to the south and east, then hiking east until you reach the bottom of the hill and can turn left. Follow the trail back to the creek, then back upstream to VD wall.
This is the first and obvious wall you reach when taking the trail into the South Area. It rises directly up from the south side of the creek.
Climbing Season For the South Area area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in VD (Very Direct) Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for VD (Very Direct) Wall:
Slot Machine 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Tree Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Overhanger 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Velcro 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For VD (Very Direct) Wall
Rupert The Bear 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
: High Desert
: ... : VD (Very Direct) Wall
The crux is about 35 feet up passing an overhang on the left. After the crux it's 25 ft up and to the right of sustained 5.11 climbing. This route has two new bolts I hope don't get removed making it much safer. The last move to a solid two bolted anchor is also a crux move....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Climbers on the short slab, east end of VD wall.
BETA PHOTO: VD wall from the lookout.
By Eamon Doyle
From: Sierra Madre, CA
Jan 3, 2012
Was here on 1/3/2012. The creek was running, but the area was dry and quite clean. A lot of the 5.8 climbs are greatly assisted by bringing some cams, because the climbs to the left of the cave don't have bolts early on.