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DescriptionVD wall is the large north-facing formation on the south side of Devil’s Punch Bowl. There are many single pitch routes as well as several multi-pitch routes. Most routes are well-bolted, if you don’t mind homemade hangers. But we found the old bolts and hangers to be quite solid and not an issue. Although most of the climbing on VD wall is face climbing, there are a few trad lines that tend to be bolted, as the weaknesses are shallow or flaring and don’t take pro well or often. Some routes have walk-offs but most can be rappelled from chain anchors. Also, there are intermediate chain anchors on most multi-pitch routes. The walk-off is a bit adventurous and entails scrambling down to the south and east, then hiking east until you reach the bottom of the hill and can turn left. Follow the trail back to the creek, then back upstream to VD wall. Getting ThereThis is the first and obvious wall you reach when taking the trail into the South Area. It rises directly up from the south side of the creek. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for VD (Very Direct) Wall:
Rurp Rip-off 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Slot Machine 5.8 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Tree Corner 5.8 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet
Follower’s Folly 5.9 Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 180 feet
Velcro 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Overhanger 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Spike the Punch 5.10c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For VD (Very Direct) Wall
Overhanger 5.9 CA : Los Angeles County : ... : VD (Very Direct) Wall
Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the arête past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from arête to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Rou...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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