Flaring dihedral sitting on top of a ledge. A few ways to get to the ledge exist. Once there head straight up the dihedral. Mostly stemming. No real crux, just fun climbing all the way up.
In the middle of the Limbo Area. Just off the trail, to the right of The Rift. An obvious wide dihedral that starts on a ledge.
There are safe ways to the ledge. I would say that the first placement that I would actually consider falling on after that comes maybe in the middle of the dihedral or higher. If you are determined to lead this the dihedral protects with marginal RPs and probably good small aliens. These are my observations from the safety of a TR anyway. There is a bolt anchor at the top of this climb, maybe 20 feet back from the top which can be walked to up and left of the climb. Only lead this if you don't mind soloing a little 5.10 because that's what you will be doing.
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Aug 13, 2007
This is a scary lead. I would probably call this X rather than R. The boulder problem to the ledge is no big deal, but the thin nuts in the corner below the crux wouldn't likely hold any kind of fall. Those are all the gear you get for the crux mantel move. After the crux, some small cams protect the last bit of climbing to the top. Falling on lead from anywhere before that would likely land you bouncing off the ledge and then to the ground. Just throw a top rope on this one. It's really not worth the danger of the lead.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Feb 17, 2010
AND... it can be especially hairy right after rainfall, when the run-off dirt dries all over this face/crack making it extremely dirty. Both this and Double Trouble suffer greatly from dirt run-off. Having made the mistake of climbing both during such periods of time, it doesnt make the climb that much harder, just hairier.
|By Chris Orozco|
From: Lone Pine, CA
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
it's a fun lead if you're comfortable at the grade