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Vasodilator 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 9,557
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

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Dan Levison sending Vaso (opening moves pictured)....

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Description 

Vasodilator definitely lives up to its name. This is a fantastic line by Mark Rolofson that will keep you working the entire time. Multiple 5.12 cruxes grace this overhung line leading you to the final moves on "The Egg". This is a brutal, smooth bulging arete that keeps you from getting to the anchors. Unlock the secret to these moves and the route is yours. Pay close attention and look for many sneaky rests on this route, you will need them. A variety of moves describes this climb with thin crimps, slopers, jugs and of course thuggish climbing through the egg section. Definitely a three star route.

From Bolt Cola (previosly listed as number 29, now listed in a different section of the cliff), head up the obvious gully past a few bolted routes. Continue up the gully until you get to some fourth class climbing past some large boulders / chockstones. Above these, you will find a good belay area underneath the huge overhanging arete. There may be some slings hanging from the upper bolts to help find the route. This climb is in the sun during the winter and makes for a good climb on a sunny day.

Protection 

11 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Vasodilator Slideshow Add Photo
Becky Johnson high up in the canyon.
Becky Johnson high up in the canyon.
Scott Bennett slapping the "egg" up high.
Scott Bennett slapping the "egg" up high...
Becky Johnson basking in the late afternoon sun.
Becky Johnson basking in the late afternoon sun.
Scott Bennett making good progress on his first attempt.
Scott Bennett making good progress on his first at...

Comments on Vasodilator Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 31, 2001

This is a great route if want to do a 13a, but I don't have tons of bouldering power. There is no single stopper move, just lots of V3 type sequences. It also lends itself to creative beta and good resting skills. Most of the hard sequences have several options.

Tom Isaacson
By Willie Mein
Jul 18, 2003

The long sling is definitely useful for getting the rope up and/or working the moves on the crux. Unless your name is Sven, and/or you have had the satisfaction for the flash of this fine route, then you have probably made good use of the sling in the past. I agree that it may be unsightly, but I favor leaving it. That tat is phat.
By Stefan Griebel
Jul 18, 2003
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Trim the phat (tat, that is).

1. The first or second time I got on this route, the tat was windblown around the bolt it is tied too, and I couldn't even reach it.

2. The bolt is harder to clip after you've pulled the crux with that mess of tat on there.

3. The fall off the crux is a blast. Nothing but air!
By Willie Mein
Jul 21, 2003

Adam, the difference between the tat and other garbage, is that the long sling serves a purpose, and has been placed intentionally. On this route, in that location, it is extremely useful for those that don't flash 5.13. The bolt is in a good location for the red point. IMHO, moving the bolt would be a mistake. Whipping off the crux is clean and fun, but most folks probably were gald to have the sling to yard on, so they could clip the bolt and work out the moves. I think you should leave this one alone. And,..if u take dat tat, is will be back.

Adam, why do you even bother to ask others for their opinion? I offered my opinion after you requested feedback in this public forum. Two of three people that responded said they did not have a problem with the sling, and then you post "so I'm going to take it down." It sounds as is you feel strongly about this webbing, and are going to do what you want anyhow. Go for it. Next time just do it, without the disingenuous call for other's opinions and all the preaching. BTW, I didn't put the sling up, as you insinuated in your last post.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 24, 2003

Confession is good for the soul, right? I was working on this route in the spring of 2000. While working on the egg portion on lead, my partner and I took several very dangerous falls. When we fell fairly high on the egg (which is easy to do), we'd swing down and sideways, with our legs clipping the rope below the bolt. That caused us to windmill out of control and in one case I nearly whacked my head on the rock. I thought it was very unsafe, so I stick clipped the bolt above the egg. I then came back and placed the long sling to allow clipping from below and largely eliminate that problem. I left it there after I finally sent the Violator (took a long time and a lot of belayers) because a friend wanted to work it. I am not sure whether the sling up there is still the same one. I would think it has gotten frayed from whipping around in the wind. I did not think it was an eyesore since hardly anyone can see. Anyhow, that's the story. I think most people would be grateful for the long sling (or the addition of a bolt). But, if someone wants to remove it, I certainly wouldn't fight about it -- just warn people. Done.

Tom Isaacson
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 3, 2003
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

In regards to the webbing on the last bolt most people use it to pre-clip before doing the crux sequence and not as a point of aid. Two years ago I asked Mark if he was willing to reposition the second to last bolt down and right which would have prevented either the presence of webbing or repositioning the last bolt, Mark's opinion is that the bolts are fine where they are. I respect that, but also be aware that as long as people continue to work this route, the webbing will continue to be present, whether it gets repeatedly removed or not!

Instead of complaining about the unsightly view of a piece of webbing blowing in the wind, perhaps folks could be more constructive and rebuilt the approach gully, which is far more unsightly. I have done some minor landscaping work in the past with boulders and wood present, but I believe that this effort could be better taken up by one of our organizations, as an Adopt-A-Crag event.
By richard magill
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Awesome steep pumpy climbing to a difficult crux at the end.

Great job by Mark Rolofson.
By George Squibb
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Changed my mind; some of the holds that were there in 1996 aren't there anymore.
By Jesse Ryan
Oct 21, 2005
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

My RP in 9/04. Enduro 13a.
By Chris Briley
Jul 3, 2006

So, the sling/tat/satanwebbing talk is super important, but what I'm wondering about is what hold you people clip the last bolt from. The finger lock? The sloper left of the finger lock? The Crystal? It felt like I was heading too far right when I followed the chalk up the arete/egg. Seems like it would be quite a swinging fall from over there. Any tips? Oh and as of now there is no webbing on that bolt so if anyone's been holding back from a webbing-tainted redpoint it's sending time for you! Thanks.
By Christopher Barlow
Jan 9, 2007

I was on Vasodilator in mid-December and haven't return since due to the recent snows. At the time, there were draws in place on the whole thing, which is certainly convenient; however, the draws are in truly horrific shape. I've never been more certain that a quickdraw would break if I'd fallen on it. A few of the draws are in decent condition, some questionable, and some down right life-threatening. I recognize and adhere strongly to the rules about respecting others' in situ draws on routes, but, in this case, it seems irresponsible to leave these potential time bombs open to the public. As far as I know, the draws are still there (as of 1/8/07). I would vote to remove them as soon as the weather allows climbing in the canyon again. If you did at any point leave draws on the route, go get them and throw them away (maybe not the biners). If they're there later when it warms up, I might have to make an executive decision and get rid of them - they're more in the way and potentially dangerous than helpful. Imagine climbing Vasodilator with a string of small cams and RPs instead of bolts and you get the idea.
By Deathkills
From: North Denver CO
Aug 13, 2007

The draws that are hanging... are they new??? They look like it....
I am trying to make this my first 13a.... These aren't the draws from earlier this year??? I.e made it through winter???
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2007

The flake side pull between the 8th and 9th bolt gave way and is now gone. so instead of going out left you can mantle straight up from the clipping hold at the 8th to the clipping hold at the 9th. I don't think it changes the grade any. Happy sending.
By Ethan Plaut
Jul 31, 2010

Shameless beta request . . . what's the "secret" to the egg moves? If someone doesn't mind sharing beta, I would truly appreciate a PM. I can get through it but "my way" feels way hard and just plain wrong. Amazing route with a lot of very cool movement.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2011

Hadn't been on Vaso since '97 or so...and yes, I think a couple well used holds aren't there anymore. Speaking of loose holds, a big heads-up to any future suitors - in between the 5th and 6th bolts is a BIG timebomb ready to go! It's the last good rest before getting up into the scoop/shelf crux. You can right hand-jam and left wrist wrap the block to rest, clip the 6th, etc. It could cut your rope, take out your belayer, and definitely wipe out anyone lower in the gully like bowling pins. I'm not a huge proponent of glue, and I don't think it will work anyways. The block is 100% fractured entirely around (36"x12"x6"?) and will move if you try to rock it. We could pry the whole thing off, but I'm certain it will dramatically change the climb (but nature is not timeless anyways). Bolt it to the wall with a 10" bolt? Ha, isn't there some other climb in BoCan that has that?? Anyways, there you have it. Tread lightly and watch out!
By Area Dan
Jan 2, 2012

I agree with Alex's post about the loose chunk of rock. It is really sketchy (just knock on it) and will probably come off sometime soon. I think trundling it will dramatically change the route and make it waaay harder. Trundling the rock is also really unsafe unless there are spotters below making sure no one is hiking anywhere nearby. I think bolting it to the wall is the best bet, but some Boulder Canyon chossaneers might have a better idea.
By Seth Finkelstein
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 2, 2012

I third the comments regarding the loose block, it's as sketchy as any block I've seen on a well-traveled route. It's definitely headed to the ground one way or another, might even happen with another freeze-thaw cycle. While it may change the route considerably when it comes off, I'm not convinced that it could be safely fixed to the wall by glue or bolt. It looks to me as though it's likely to head straight at the belayer if it gives way (the rope also diagonals directly across it).

I propose trundling as safely as possible. It would be nice to have some community weigh-in to reach a consensus on the matter.

Exercise caution if you do elect to climb on the route while it's still in place.
By slim
Administrator
Jan 3, 2012

One possible method might be to drill a bolt into the rock and attach a hanger, then basically lower it off with a rope. If Alex's size estimate is correct, it is probably around 250 lbs or so. If you cut this thing loose, it could pinball down the gully and then shoot down the hillside (maybe to the road, not a lot of trees to stop it).
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 3, 2012

Slim's answer to the loose block is most likely the best. We have used this process in other places where a trundle would cause considerable harm. 250 lbs is not an excessive load for a lowering belay from the top anchors. It has worked out best for us to redirect the ground belay through a one or two biner system that takes the load off the belayer and serves as 3:1 pulley system. One person climbs up and lowers to the block, places the bolt/hanger, and clips themselves off above the block and off the top anchor (in the unlikely event that it blows). A static line is best for lowering the block so that when it is pried off it will not generate the momentum that would arise from a lead line. The ground belayer then lowers the block using a Grigri.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 16, 2012

I would be careful trying to remove this block. You have to remember that it's not just any 13a but one of the flagship 13a's in the canyon. Remove the block and it could instantly become 14a. Some people including myself may be psyched if it becomes several letter grades harder due to already sending the route, although I would want to keep the route as is, since it is such a high quality route and sees so much traffic. Lots of people climb 13a in the Canyon, a lot less people climb 13b, 13c or harder.... Anyone know how long this thing has been loose for? I'm curious as to if it has gotten looser over the years with constant traffic or if it is the same as it was 5 years ago? I think this will be valuable information as to what to do next, so any information would be greatly appreciated. I'll talk to some of my peeps who have put up routes in the Canyon and get their advice as to what to do. Would love to hear from someone who has been on the route both years back and recently to see if the block has gotten looser. I know of other blocks out there including one at Animal World that was bolted to the wall, but obviously thickness and size play a big part in this. If anything is removed, I would talk to some of the bigger name people in the area in terms of bolting and route development prior to doing anything. I'm sure we can all figure something out without compromising the integrity of the route.
By GregParker
From: Denver, CO
Apr 22, 2012

I was up there yesterday (Sat., April 21), and think I left my jacket and maybe a long sleeve shirt as well. If anyone grabbed them, please send me a message. It would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
By dyager
From: Fort Collins
Jan 17, 2013

What is the status of said "loose block"? I was up there this week (1.15.13) and didn't see anything remotely loose or sketchy on the entire route. Great route by the way!
By slim
Administrator
Nov 1, 2013

One of the key things for an epoxy/glue job is that the surfaces need to be clean. I think it would be pretty tough to get inside the crack and get it well cleaned(?).
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 1, 2013

Slim is exactly correct about gluing.

In general, if you want to glue something, you really need to get both bonding surfaces very clean or the glue job won't last and then you have made a real mess that is really hard to clean up. The best case scenario usually involves removing the piece of stone if possible so that you can get into all of the little crevices, etc. and thoroughly clean all of the surfaces. You then let everything dry well and only then do you apply the glue. If you have never done this, please don't make this your first attempt. Moreover, once this thing is off, the best thing to do would probably be to figure out whether not having the hold drastically changes the climb. If it does, well then you can go about reattaching the piece if need be.

If folks really think this needs to be dealt with, then perhaps some experienced volunteers will come forward to help figure this out. Until then, please don't go up there and squirt two tubes of glue into a dirty crack.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 1, 2013

Fair enough, Van, sorry if I came across brashly. We just had some mild disasters at Jailhouse in CA with folks trying to "fix" routes and ended up with a glue smeared mess. Moreover, good on you for trying to get the ball rolling. Perhaps some long time locals will chime in here in the near future to drop their two cents. I can't promise that I will have the time, but if you end up needing some help, feel free to contact me.
Cheers.
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

"Would love to hear from someone who has been on the route both years back and recently to see if the block has gotten looser."

Yes, the block is loose compared to 2003, and to be honest, I do not even remember it being an issue back then. I suspect that if it comes off it might cause serious harm to the belayer and anyone else in the gully. Looking at the fall line, it would likely hit the ledges below the first bolt and either bounce across and/or break-up into more pieces.

Losing the block will result in a harder line. The block is used to initiate the second of three cruxes on the face, without the block I do not know what will be available for feet.