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Brass Wall
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Varnishing Point 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, March 1976
Page Views: 3,250
Submitted By: Scott Conner on Dec 15, 2001
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Varnishing Point from the rap on No Laughing Matte...

Description 

The Brass Wall is split by a nice looking 2-pitch crack system with a big ledge halfway up. This is Varnishing Point.

P1: 5.5, ~80' Climb an easy crack with good pro to a large ledge.

P2: 5.8+, ~80' Climb up to an overhang and lieback out left following the crack. Clip a bolt on the face before you climb down and right of an offwidth section to the rap anchors on another small ledge. This pitch is full value but takes great gear.

Descent: Double rope rap.


Protection 

Pro to 3" works fine.



Photos of Varnishing Point Slideshow Add Photo
brass wall
BETA PHOTO: brass wall
J.C. leading crux pitch two.
J.C. leading crux pitch two.
Varnishing Point...or a variation of, Red Rock, NV
Varnishing Point...or a variation of, Red Rock, NV
Linking 1&2
Linking 1&2
Comments on Varnishing Point Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris G.
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 17, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Super good route, Lieback is pretty smooth sailing. Did it yesterday (2-16-14) and one of the bolts on the second pitch anchor is very loose. If you look behind the hanger, The entire bolt seems to wiggle. We chanced it and rapped off, it was pretty scary thinking about on the way down.

By L. Hamilton
Feb 26, 2004

Historical note: FA March 1976, Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton. The name was inspired by the 1971 cult movie "Vanishing Point," which had recently been screened in Boulder.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A #4 Camalot is useful on both the 1st and 2nd pitches.

By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jan 6, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Although the pitches are short, this is still a fun, worthwhile route to do. We only had gear to a #3, which was fine, but on the initial moves of pitch 1, it would have been nice to be able to sink a #4 cam in above a huge, very suspect looking block, before standing on it. Looks like it'll break off one day. I didn't trust it enough to put my full weight on it, that's for sure!

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 1, 2007

Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 2 is about 90', NOT 150'. Approx 130' total to ground from the top of pitch 2.

By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Mar 28, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 31, 2009

steve- there's a key patch of unvarnished rock for that lieback move that keeps it in the 5.8 range- if you missed that, it would probably feel harder.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Linking the two pitches with a 60m rope is no problem if you keep rope drag in mind.

A bit of a one move wonder in terms of difficulty, but still pretty enjoyable.

By Canon
Dec 8, 2012

Does anyone know if you can get off the top of P2 with a 70m rope? We got up the first pitch before realizing that the rap bolts were "on the backside" and we didn't want to risk an epic, or more importantly, a big fat ticket.

By kevin graves
Jan 8, 2013

Yes you can rap off with a 70m rope. Just gets to the bottom but very safe.