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Varnished Wall

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Circle of Benevolence 
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With Malice and Forethought 

Varnished Wall 

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Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 25, 2002
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Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought".
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The Varnished Wall is really only noteworthy for a couple of 1-star routes, but worth checking out if the better areas are crowded.

Getting There 

The Varnished Wall is located approximately 100 yards east of Pixie Rock on the opposite (east) side of the road. Park at Billboard Buttress and walk north along the road for about 100 yards. Varnished Wall will be on your right.

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Varnished Wall:
Crank Queenie   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Varnished Wall

Featured Route For Varnished Wall
the first crux, well protected, unlike the move to get to the bolt <br />

Circle of Benevolence 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Varnished Wall
Start just right of With Malice and Forethought and climb up past a horizontal crack to reach a face with two bolts. Cut left to join With Malice and Forethought after the second bolt and belay from a ledge.Good moves on clean, solid rock make this a fun climb to do if in the area....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Varnished Wall
Photos of Varnished Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Varnished Wall
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Varnished Wall-snow storm. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall-snow storm.
Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP <br />
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Varnished Wall Add Comment
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By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003

The crap bolt on Mosaic was replaced 1/2003 with a modern one.

By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003

Descent: a nest of slings around a horn with a quicklink and a rap ring, located at the top of With Malice and Forethought. Try to ignore the creaking and groaning the rock makes with you weight the anchor ...

By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2009

some good (and bad) slings in the nest to date...bring one yourself if your a skeptic