The Varnished Wall is really only noteworthy for a couple of 1-star routes, but worth checking out if the better areas are crowded.
The Varnished Wall is located approximately 100 yards east of Pixie Rock on the opposite (east) side of the road. Park at Billboard Buttress and walk north along the road for about 100 yards. Varnished Wall will be on your right.
Browse More Classics in Varnished Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Varnished Wall:
Circle of Benevolence 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Presence of Grace 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Featured Route For Varnished Wall
With Malice and Forethought 5.7 CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Varnished Wall
With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie. Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground. Although awkward, it is possible and recommended to back up the 1/4" bolt with a nut or TCU.Anchor: slung horn(s).Descent: rap off slung horns with one quicklink....[more] Browse More Classics in CA