Login with Facebook
Varnished Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

Varnished Wall  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09406, -116.15493 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,497
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 25, 2002


74° | 55°

76° | 57°

77° | 58°

79° | 62°

82° | 61°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought&...


The Varnished Wall is really only noteworthy for a couple of 1-star routes, but worth checking out if the better areas are crowded.

Getting There 

The Varnished Wall is located approximately 100 yards east of Pixie Rock on the opposite (east) side of the road. Park at Billboard Buttress and walk north along the road for about 100 yards. Varnished Wall will be on your right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Varnished Wall:
Crank Queenie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Varnished Wall

Featured Route For Varnished Wall
Setting pro on Crank Queenie - (c) Scott Nomi

Crank Queenie 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Varnished Wall
Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall. It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements). Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.Anchor: slung horn(s).Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Varnished Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Varnished Wall
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Varnished Wall-snow storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall-snow storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Varnished Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003
The crap bolt on Mosaic was replaced 1/2003 with a modern one.

By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003
Descent: a nest of slings around a horn with a quicklink and a rap ring, located at the top of With Malice and Forethought. Try to ignore the creaking and groaning the rock makes with you weight the anchor ...
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2009
some good (and bad) slings in the nest to date...bring one yourself if your a skeptic
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!