Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought".
The Varnished Wall is really only noteworthy for a couple of 1-star routes, but worth checking out if the better areas are crowded.
The Varnished Wall is located approximately 100 yards east of Pixie Rock on the opposite (east) side of the road. Park at Billboard Buttress and walk north along the road for about 100 yards. Varnished Wall will be on your right.
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
8 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Varnished Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Varnished Wall:
Featured Route For Varnished Wall
With Malice and Forethought 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Varnished Wall
With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie. Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground. Although awkward, it is possible and recommended to back up the 1/4" bolt with a nut or TCU.Anchor: slung horn(s).Descent: rap off slung horns with one quicklink....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Varnished Wall
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Varnished Wall-snow storm.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall.
Photo by Blitzo.
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003
The crap bolt on Mosaic was replaced 1/2003 with a modern one.
By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003
Descent: a nest of slings around a horn with a quicklink and a rap ring, located at the top of With Malice and Forethought. Try to ignore the creaking and groaning the rock makes with you weight the anchor ...
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2009
some good (and bad) slings in the nest to date...bring one yourself if your a skeptic