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Varnished Wall

Routes Sorted
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Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

Varnished Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09406, -116.15493 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,002
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 25, 2002
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Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.

Description 

The Varnished Wall is really only noteworthy for a couple of 1-star routes, but worth checking out if the better areas are crowded.

Getting There 

The Varnished Wall is located approximately 100 yards east of Pixie Rock on the opposite (east) side of the road. Park at Billboard Buttress and walk north along the road for about 100 yards. Varnished Wall will be on your right.

Climbing Season

For the Indian Cove Campground area.

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Varnished Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Varnished Wall:
Crank Queenie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Varnished Wall

Featured Route For Varnished Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting pro on Crank Queenie - (c) Scott Nomi

Crank Queenie 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Varnished Wall
Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall. It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements). Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.Anchor: slung horn(s).Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Varnished Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Varnished Wall-snow storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall-snow storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Varnished Wall
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought&...
Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought&...

Comments on Varnished Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003
The crap bolt on Mosaic was replaced 1/2003 with a modern one.

By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003
Descent: a nest of slings around a horn with a quicklink and a rap ring, located at the top of With Malice and Forethought. Try to ignore the creaking and groaning the rock makes with you weight the anchor ...
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2009
some good (and bad) slings in the nest to date...bring one yourself if your a skeptic

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