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Varnished Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

Varnished Wall  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09406, -116.15493 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,165
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 25, 2002
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Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought&...


The Varnished Wall is really only noteworthy for a couple of 1-star routes, but worth checking out if the better areas are crowded.

Getting There 

The Varnished Wall is located approximately 100 yards east of Pixie Rock on the opposite (east) side of the road. Park at Billboard Buttress and walk north along the road for about 100 yards. Varnished Wall will be on your right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Varnished Wall:
Crank Queenie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Varnished Wall

Featured Route For Varnished Wall
Russ Walling on "With Malice and Forethought". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

With Malice and Forethought 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Varnished Wall
With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie. Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground. Although awkward, it is possible and recommended to back up the 1/4" bolt with a nut or TCU.Anchor: slung horn(s).Descent: rap off slung horns with one quicklink....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Varnished Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Varnished Wall
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Hang'n at the base of the Varnished Wall.
Varnished Wall-snow storm. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall-snow storm. Photo by Blitzo.
Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall, Joshua Tree NP
Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP <br />
BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall (Left Side), Joshua Tree NP
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Bladdersage and Varnished Wall. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Varnished Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2003
The crap bolt on Mosaic was replaced 1/2003 with a modern one.

By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003
Descent: a nest of slings around a horn with a quicklink and a rap ring, located at the top of With Malice and Forethought. Try to ignore the creaking and groaning the rock makes with you weight the anchor ...
By Pete eye
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2009
some good (and bad) slings in the nest to date...bring one yourself if your a skeptic