Variation 5.10d R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Edsburg |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 |
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Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
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| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, before gear can be placed. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors.
Protection Gear 2.5", with extra hand sized cams...
By manuel rangel
Feb 20, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c R
| I thought we were on the other 10 variation, made for fun runout climbing. Very tricky climbing, well worth the effort, protecting the roof was very strenuous. |
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.10b R
| That roof (and variation) is 10b.....10c if you really want to stretch it. It's not really runout either. Plenty of stuff to sling to keep yourself from hitting the deck. It's a bit spicy, but definitely not runout. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b R
| pulling the roof direct is .10b. |
By manuel rangel
Jan 5, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c R
| I still think it's a runout lead. Especially considering today's climbs. Slinging horns is nice but I felt sketchy and it was gonna hurt if I fell. I consider that runout, from the leader's point of view. Without more folks leading this route to gain consensus we are left with those who feel runout and those who don't. I felt runout. Good climb though. |
By manuel rangel
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c R
| I'll have to go back and lead it again, I can't really remember where exactly I thought the crux was, I felt more runout than anything. I think I was worried about getting to the roof and then plugging in a cam. The climbing wasn't too difficult but I did feel out there compared to most cracks. Kinda like cochise climbing. |
By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b PG13
| I led this yesterday. It didn't feel so run out. You can sling the monkey fist once you are a few moves up, then plug double equalized cams in the roof before you move around to the face. After that the gear is good. The crux is pulling the second roof. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.10
| This was a very fun pitch. I'd struggle to call it 10d and certainly wouldn't call it R but it was a bit spicy. Very cool climbing none the less. |
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Sparse gear until a few feet below the second roof, but on 5.easy terrain. Red and green c3's will give some confidence at the first roof down and right of the main crack. |
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