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 ADVANCED
Lower Buttress
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For Real Crack 
Groove, The 
Hemorroids in Flight 
Novitiate's Nightmare 
Pillar of Society 
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Surrealistic Pillar 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 
Variation 
Wild Turkey 

Variation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Edsburg
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
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Description 

This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, before gear can be placed. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors.


Protection 

Gear 2.5", with extra hand sized cams...



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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 20, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

I thought we were on the other 10 variation, made for fun runout climbing. Very tricky climbing, well worth the effort, protecting the roof was very strenuous.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

That roof (and variation) is 10b.....10c if you really want to stretch it. It's not really runout either. Plenty of stuff to sling to keep yourself from hitting the deck. It's a bit spicy, but definitely not runout.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

pulling the roof direct is .10b.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 5, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

I still think it's a runout lead. Especially considering today's climbs. Slinging horns is nice but I felt sketchy and it was gonna hurt if I fell. I consider that runout, from the leader's point of view. Without more folks leading this route to gain consensus we are left with those who feel runout and those who don't. I felt runout. Good climb though.

By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

I'll have to go back and lead it again, I can't really remember where exactly I thought the crux was, I felt more runout than anything. I think I was worried about getting to the roof and then plugging in a cam. The climbing wasn't too difficult but I did feel out there compared to most cracks. Kinda like cochise climbing.

By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13

I led this yesterday. It didn't feel so run out. You can sling the monkey fist once you are a few moves up, then plug double equalized cams in the roof before you move around to the face. After that the gear is good. The crux is pulling the second roof.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This was a very fun pitch. I'd struggle to call it 10d and certainly wouldn't call it R but it was a bit spicy. Very cool climbing none the less.

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Sparse gear until a few feet below the second roof, but on 5.easy terrain. Red and green c3's will give some confidence at the first roof down and right of the main crack.