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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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variation to Mail Ridge 
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variation to Mail Ridge 

5.10b/c

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
FA: Woodruff and Brad Gilbert, 1974
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Lenny protecting the crux.

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Description 

Wow! What a great, little, hidden gem. Just right of Hyperspace Roundup and left of Mail Ridge's 1st pitch is a great little 110' pitch connecting 3 cracks successively left of the last. 3 cruxes (somewhat strenuous) at 10b/c, 8+, 8+. Little alcove protected from some wind at the base. Goes up directly to a tree with slings and a ring. No star in either Rossiter guide, but it's a diamond in the rough.

FWIW, it felt much easier than Super Slab, Art's Spar, Tagger, Krystal Klyr, for comparison purposes.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack.



Photos of variation to Mail Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Brian approaching the crux.

Brian approaching the crux.

Placing gear for the first crux.

Placing gear for the first crux.

At what we found to be the second crux.  It eases in difficulty from here but its not easy to get into this position.

At what we found to be the second crux. It eases ...


Comments on variation to Mail Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 16, 2003

This IS very nice. It should have a name. How about Special Delivery, keeping the mail theme?

I thought it was quite hard. I stopped halfway through the overhang with my hand on the bucket and tried to place a cam. I ended up lowering to the ground 4 times getting the gear in.

You can rap after the hard stuff from 2 bolts on the left, but the steep corner above is very nice. I was very tired by then, so it felt hard, but 8+ might be right as Leo says. Above that is easier for a while to a fun bulge. We angled left from there through the red band, past trees to finish on Lightning Crack.

By S. Kimball
Feb 19, 2003

How about calling it "Going Postal"...obviously they lost their marbles labeling it 5.10b/c. Ivan, I got licked on this one too! Stamp it 5.10+ then send it....

By david goldstein
May 13, 2006

One move wonder. Did this immed. after HC Direct and before Zip Code and found both those routes superior.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Dec 11, 2008

This variation felt 5.10+++ in my opinion. I remember protecting the crux with a #0.5 Camalot and falling.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2008
rating: 5.10c

I bet it has a name, and I bet Levine knows it, which is to say, I suspect that it will be in the next book. Steve???