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Variation to Hunky Monkey 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Oct 31, 2012

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Description 

This is a great but much harder finish to Hunky Monkey. Do the first two pitches of Hunky Monkey, but instead of going up and right on the ramp for the third pitch, go LEFT and climb a short bolted headwall that goes at 11b. The fourth pitch is amazing and is rated 11d.

The 11b pitch has a crazy pull up and mantle move to get started which is followed by nice but easier climbing. The next pitch is excellent and involves steep and difficult to read face climbing.

Location 

This is a variation to Hunky Monkey. Go left after the second pitch of Hunky Monkey to an obvious, bolted wall.

Protection 

Both pitches are well bolted with good anchors.


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By BrendanP
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks for posting, we climbed this route betaless and so we weren't sure exactly which variation we'd done.

Last two pitches brought out some technical, smeary stems that felt insecure but are very well-protected and fun. The trick to the fourth pitch crux is to be tall, but my partner (shorty) somehow pulled through it with some invisi-crimp micro-pinch bullshit. Whatever works, I guess.
By Ben Collett
Aug 3, 2013

There are also variations to the first two pitches that were installed around the same time (Dan Hare et al. I think). On the first pitch, step left around the 6th bolt from Hunky Monkey and follow some slightly devious face climbing to the anchor on Hunky Monkey. On the second, step left after the second bolt, and climb directly through the roof.