Variation to For Love of Mothernot  5.8+ R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet FA:  unknown, maybe Deb Submitted By:  Deb Thompson on Sep 15, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

look Ma, no bolts

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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>> Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

For a bit more fun, if you're in the area, you can ascend this trad variation on lead or TR to the left of For Love of Mothernot's second pitch on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thorodin. Then you won't have to have the bolts determine where you can get pro.

From the staging area for the CMC Route, scramble along a third to fourth class ramp heading up & left toward For Love of Mothernot's second pitch. After about 60 ft, find a belay at the base of a large tree (2 x 48 in slings to girth hitch). Look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. The shallow left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the left of the bolt on For Love of Mothernot is the route.

Go up the slab, 8s, get onto the plate/flake either from its base of in from the L a few feet higher. Angle L past a small left-facing dihedral with finger sized protection. Hop into the large crack and go to the belay ledge with two bolts. 130ft.

Protection 

A set of cams, wires, include Aliens.