Varco Route 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 135 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | P1: John Varco P2: Brody and Bird |
| Submitted By: | Gaar on Apr 15, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown
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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing. See www.nps.gov/zion/parknews/2012-climbing-closures-announced.h>>> for more info
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description One of the best splitters in the main canyon!!! P1: Climb Nice hand crack to a 5 foot tight hands roof, then pull over roof on .75's and clip the first anchor. 60ft 5.11b/c P2: Climb tight hands/thumb stacks for 80ft. 5.10b Rap whole route with a full 70m or two raps with a sixty. I linked the 2 pitches for what was possibly the 3rd ascent, and possibly the first linkup at 5.11+
Location Just around the butress (to the left)from Voices-- Same approach as Voices
Protection Single set Orange TCU - Blue Camlot ...Triples/quads #.75 and #1 Camolots
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
| Profile of P1
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By Ben Ricketts May 24, 2010
| This is labeled as the Varco Route in the Super Topo guide book. It is an awesome line that is well worth your time. Nice lead linking both of these together. I thought P1 was a little stiffer and would give it 5.11+. P2 is super fun and interesting the whole way at mid 5.10. |
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