Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mt. Moroni
Select Route:
Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 
Plan B T 
Varco Route T 
Voice from the Dust T 

Varco Route 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P1: John Varco P2: Brody and Bird
Page Views: 963
Submitted By: Gaar on Apr 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


One of the best splitters in the main canyon!!!

P1: Climb Nice hand crack to a 5 foot tight hands roof, then pull over roof on .75's and clip the first anchor. 60ft 5.11b/c

P2: Climb tight hands/thumb stacks for 80ft. 5.10b

Rap whole route with a full 70m or two raps with a sixty.

I linked the 2 pitches for what was possibly the 3rd ascent, and possibly the first linkup at 5.11+


Just around the butress (to the left)from Voices--
Same approach as Voices


Single set Orange TCU - Blue Camlot
...Triples/quads #.75 and #1 Camolots

Photos of Varco Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile of P1
Profile of P1

Comments on Varco Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Ricketts
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 24, 2010

This is labeled as the Varco Route in the Super Topo guide book. It is an awesome line that is well worth your time. Nice lead linking both of these together. I thought P1 was a little stiffer and would give it 5.11+. P2 is super fun and interesting the whole way at mid 5.10.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!