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This route is left of [Cactus Rose Wall] approximately 100 feet. Find a semi-free standing pillar with 2 routes on it. According to [Van Horn's] guides, this is the bolted line on the right that goes up a little arete. [Knapp's] guide shows this as the route in the middle of the face. Neither of the guides shows 2 routes there, so I climbed the arete, given that [Van Horn's] guide came first.
Consider clipping the first bolt to be R. You have to commit to a few moves to get to it, and if you come off most likely your feet will hit the ledge, flipping you upside down to fall a total of 30 feet onto your skull. You just might die.
Luckily, the climbing on this route never approaches 10b/c, especially compared to the other similarly graded routes on the south side of the bank. Probably closer to 5.9. The rock is fairly decent, but the climbing is a bit lackluster. The single bolt anchor has some cheezy costume jewelry on it to lower from. I decided to top out on the table of a thousand knives and scramble down the chimney immediately to the west. Worth climbing if you are a connoisseur of obscure [Shelf] choss.
2 bolts and a single bolt lowering station.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 16, 2004
I will retro the route. When I did the route eons ago it seemed fine. Oh well, always better to have a safe route.