|Type:||Mixed, Ice, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||WI5 M5 [details]|
|FA:||Michael Bearzi and Bill Myers, 1991|
|Season:||Spring or Fall|
|Submitted By:||Chris Sheridan on Apr 13, 2006|
|Comments on Vanquished (Powell Peak)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 16, 2007
|Having just skied off the divide nearby Vanquished this morning and having spent the last couple of weeks in RMNP above treeline, it seems very unlikely that there is a shred of ice on the Vanquished Wall. Potentially with this warm spell, some new moisture, and a cold front?, things could come into shape up there. Otherwise, it is pretty dry and cold up high, not ideal for ice formation.|
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 8, 2008
|For those ice/mixed junkies, I invite you to look at The Inquisition route on this wall also. You may enjoy it, as well as a number of FA options in this area. Git-r-dun.|
By Dougald MacDonald
Jun 10, 2008
Jack Roberts led a long variation to the first pitch of Vanquished on June 9, 2008. It's the big left-facing corner/chimney just left of the normal start. Moderately difficult mixed ground leads to a poorly protected thin-ice step, followed by strenuous liebacking with hands on rock and feet on thin ice, followed by a weird and insecure groove. The pitch arcs back to the right after the chimney and ends at a fixed anchor on Vanquished, about 120 feet off the ground. Very difficult to rate. Jack said it was "like an awkward 5.9 crack that doesn't let up." This MIGHT be a good alternative to Vanquished's ephemeral first pitch when that's not in. Then again, it might not.
Note: Topher Donahue has informed me that he led this pitch "about 10 years ago."
Vanquished was in good shape over the weekend and yesterday, but today's heat might have killed a few key sections. In addition, we (I) destroyed most of the ice at the hard bulge atop the fourth pitch, and I doubt it will rebuild this year. Sorry!
Gear note: Hexes are very useful on Vanquished's icy cracks, including a large hex (10 or 11 BD) and several medium sizes.
See photos at themountainworld.blogspot.com.
By Ryan Jennings
May 28, 2010
|Kevin Cooper and I climbed a possible new variation to the first two pitches of this on 5/25/10. Our route was to the right and climbed two excellent pitches of WI5 M5 before ending below a splitter crack with a pin in it's base. We discussed continuing up the crack but opted to stay on ice and used the pin to pendulum into the money pitches of Vanquished. A few photos were added.|
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Jul 29, 2010
|What an incredible route!|