Vanishing Point 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | FA (top-rope) Kevin Bein, 1969. FA (lead) Bruce Dicks, Jim Adair, November 1976. |
| Submitted By: | Joel A on Oct 23, 2011 |
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Description This is a nice, natural line. Somewhat boulder-y start, then some thin-ish face climbing, finishing on a 20-ft. finger crack. No real crux, just a sustained, flowing line with a mix of somewhat sporty moves and some crack technique up top. A few (3?) decent stances throughout.
Location One of the first routes on the south end of the cliff. It's about 10-15 ft. to the right of Carey Corner (which is the first obvious open book on the cliff). There's a direct start that begins at the memorial plaque. I did the indirect start 6 feet to the left.
Protection I toproped this. I don't have the guidebook at hand, but since the bolts have been chopped on the first half, I imagine it's spicy indeed.
| Comments on Vanishing Point |
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By Brian From: North Kingstown, RI Oct 24, 2011
| FA (top-rope) Kevin Bein, 1969. FA (lead) Bruce Dicks, Jim Adair, November 1976. Bolted on rappel 1976, chopped. Bolted on lead, chopped. |
By Fall Guy Oct 25, 2011
| chopped twice huh? and choppy the chopper doesnt mind the glued on plaque at the base of the climb... welcome to Connectikook. I'd love to see bolts put back in on the start of this, it would be a classic lead if it wasnt an X rated route. |
By Brian From: North Kingstown, RI Oct 27, 2011
| The bolt was placed on rappel by Mike Heintz and I'm pretty sure that Bruce Dicks (the FA) chopped the bolt, at least the first time, not who you are implying. Although he may have chopped it the second time. Bolts at Ragged are not allowed per the Deed of Conservation Restriction that the Nature Conservancy worked out with the Berlin Land Trust. However, bolts that were there before the transfer of land are allowed to be replaced per the agreement. So if you want to replace the bolt you may be able to work that out with the RMF. Even with that bolt it would be a spicy lead. |
By Fall Guy Oct 27, 2011
| I call everyone who goes out of their way to chop a route the same names Brian. How many chopped bolts are there at the Main Cliff Brian? |
By Brian From: North Kingstown, RI Oct 28, 2011
| Mike, I have no idea how many chopped bolts/pitons are on the main cliff. I only know of single (chopped) bolts/pins on Vanishing Point, Knight's Gambit, and YMC. I'm not defending the choppers just trying to set the historical record straight. What I'm suggesting is that now may be a good time to replace the previously existing bolts at Ragged with those bomb-proof glue-ins that are popping up around the state. It would need someone taking the initiative of running this by the RMF. Brian |
By Ksween From: Wakefield, RI Nov 21, 2011
| Brian I was there this weekend and the Pin at the of YMC was in great shape. Was there another piece of pro chopped there? |
By Brian From: North Kingstown, RI Nov 21, 2011
| Kevin, No, I'm referring to the bolts/pins that have been chopped and reappear and then chopped and reappear over the years. YMC being one of them. |
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