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Unsorted Routes:

Vanishing Point 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA (top-rope) Kevin Bein, 1969. FA (lead) Bruce Dicks, Jim Adair, November 1976.
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: Joel A on Oct 23, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This is a nice line with a few different flavors, among them some thin-ish face climbing and an enjoyable finger crack at the top.



Location 

One of the first routes on the south end of the cliff. It's about 10-15 ft. to the right of Carey Corner (which is the first obvious open book on the cliff). There's a direct start that begins at the memorial plaque. The indirect start enters from the left, pulling over an overlap on positive holds.


Protection 

See discussion below. Very runout, as is. Very convenient toprope anchors (trees).



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By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 24, 2011

FA (top-rope) Kevin Bein, 1969.
FA (lead) Bruce Dicks, Jim Adair, November 1976.

Bolted on rappel 1976, chopped. Bolted on lead, chopped.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Oct 25, 2011

chopped twice huh? and choppy the chopper doesnt mind the glued on plaque at the base of the climb... welcome to Connectikook.

I'd love to see bolts put back in on the start of this, it would be a classic lead if it wasnt an X rated route.

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 27, 2011

The bolt was placed on rappel by Mike Heintz and I'm pretty sure that Bruce Dicks (the FA) chopped the bolt, at least the first time, not who you are implying. Although he may have chopped it the second time.
Bolts at Ragged are not allowed per the Deed of Conservation Restriction that the Nature Conservancy worked out with the Berlin Land Trust. However, bolts that were there before the transfer of land are allowed to be replaced per the agreement. So if you want to replace the bolt you may be able to work that out with the RMF. Even with that bolt it would be a spicy lead.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Oct 27, 2011

I call everyone who goes out of their way to chop a route the same names Brian. How many chopped bolts are there at the Main Cliff Brian?

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 28, 2011

Mike, I have no idea how many chopped bolts/pitons are on the main cliff. I only know of single (chopped) bolts/pins on Vanishing Point, Knight's Gambit, and YMC. I'm not defending the choppers just trying to set the historical record straight. What I'm suggesting is that now may be a good time to replace the previously existing bolts at Ragged with those bomb-proof glue-ins that are popping up around the state. It would need someone taking the initiative of running this by the RMF.
Brian

By Ksween
From: Wakefield, RI
Nov 21, 2011

Brian I was there this weekend and the Pin at the of YMC was in great shape. Was there another piece of pro chopped there?

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Nov 21, 2011

Kevin,

No, I'm referring to the bolts/pins that have been chopped and reappear and then chopped and reappear over the years. YMC being one of them.