Vanishing Point 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Barry Bates and Loyd Price, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Sirius on Dec 19, 2007 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A classic and isolated line. Scum your way up the first 15 ft of vegetation and choss to a stance beneath the small but prominent roof split by a laser-cut crack. From here on out, the rock is excellent quality. Pull up to the roof on jugs and muscle your way over the lip on off-finger jams.
This rattly-finger section (.10d) lasts maybe 20 ft before you sink a thank god handjam. From here, super fun jamming (mostly in the golden 2" range - reminded this climber of a light version of Reed's Direct p2) leads a long, enjoyable ways to the top. Scramble your way up and left to the rap station (outstanding spot) at a tree.
Location From the base of Maņana (ref. Alexey's approach description for the area), walk left along the base of the wall a good ways (+/- 15 minutes). You will pass the obvious lines of Ying-Yang, Mental Block, and the Tilted Mitten. From the Tilted Mitten proceed another 1,000 ft, per Reid. To get to the start of Vanishing Point, you will circle under and around a small buttress to ascend a steep and grassy embankment with a clear and well worn climber's trail. Vanishing Point is the attractive off-fingers splitter in the center of the face (next to a small tree) that splits a roof 25 feet up. 15 feet of vegetated choss lead to this roof. Note that there is another striking finger-sized splitter a ways to the left of Vanishing Point, near an arete - a much harder and headier affair, by the look of it. Make sure you pick the right line!
Protection To 2.5", reco extra hand sizes. As of summer '07 there was a fixed Alien at the crux lip of the roof.
| Comments on Vanishing Point |
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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 19, 2007
| I am curious about getting to the base of this climb. Is more direct trail exist from the road except that described above via Maniana? |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 20, 2007
| We've done a more direct way by scrambling up a boulder field just to the left (east)of the Vanishing Point area, then cutting right (west) through the forest to come out at the steep, grassy hillside with trail. Can't remember exactly where we parked for this, but maybe a mile or so before Sentinel. There was no formal trail - just bushwhacking. |
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| I did this a couple of years ago. The slings at the belay were kinda gnarly... |
By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 1, 2010
| If you want to get there directly from the Sentinel Creek parking area, just access the main footpath. Walk past the turn off for manana and keep going east until you reach the Presidential boulder. From the back side of the Presidential boulder walk diagonally up and to the left (east). Continue in this direction until you reach the base. Access the climb from the left (east) side. I've done this many times as Vanishing point is also an excellent place to view horsetail falls when it glows in Februrary. The walk is very easy and casual. Barry Bates is the man! |
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 12, 2011
| You need two ropes to get down from the top [ top ancor is slings around the tree].
Or 80m rope, which barely reach the bottom. |
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