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 ADVANCED
Turkey Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Cramps T 
Dash and Thrangle T 
Direct Hit T 
Eastern Front, The T 
Fiend, The T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Glen's Pancake T,TR 
Gobbler's Grunt T 
Great White Crime T 
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 
Jump Start T 
Nightime Madness T 
Rastafarian T 
Route 902 T 
Satyr's Asshole T 
Second Coming T 
Southern Comfort T 
Stewart's Crack T 
Straw Turkey T 
Tofonareeker T 
Tryptophane T 
Turkey Shoot T 
Vanishing Point T 
Wild Fire T 

Vanishing Point 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA:  Earl Wiggins 1975
Page Views: 7,155
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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A2 pulley injury and still cranking with 9 fingers...

Description 

This is an awesome one pitch climb. It starts out kinda wide (fists), and then goes to a really nice finger crack over a bulge, to bolts. Excellent finger jams, and is located in the middle of the rock formation.

Protection 

Standard rack with nuts, and Aliens.


Photos of Vanishing Point Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the end of the usable crack. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Nearing the end of the usable crack.

Photo by Pau...
Joe Crotty Leading Vanishing Point <br /> <br />
Joe Crotty Leading Vanishing Point

Tyler Jones approaching the crux of the route.
Tyler Jones approaching the crux of the route.
She likes it!
She likes it!
High stepping to this hold and standing was the crux for me. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
High stepping to this hold and standing was the cr...
A few moves below the crux. It's about 5.9 up to this point. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
A few moves below the crux. It's about 5.9 up to t...
Pursuing shadows.
Pursuing shadows.

Comments on Vanishing Point Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2008
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

This climb is totally sick!!! Footwork is the key to being successful on this route. If your ability is not up to leading at this grade. It is possible to climb nighttime madness variation (5.8) twenty feet to the left of Vanishing Point. From the first ledge it is possible to hook into Vanishing Points anchors. Another good sicky is Great White Crime (5.11a) right of Vanishing Point.
By Chris Fisher
Jul 4, 2001

The finger crack on the first third of the route is of the best quality. Bomber finger locks up to the crux. The crux was difficult and required just the right foot work. After the bulge the crack opens to hands. Makes a great TR for aspiring 5.10 climbers like myself.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 6, 2001

Ah yes, Jimmy Dunn has done it with one hand behind his back....
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 12, 2002

Think crack with your hands and face with your feet; otherwise, it will feel harder. Excellent route.
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Jul 25, 2003

A blue Alien is a lifesaver through the crux. Don't be discouraged, some of the founders of this area (who first did this climb 20 years ago) still hang on this before firing Great White Crime.
By TBD
Jul 12, 2004

Great climbing, quality the entire way.
By nolteboy
Oct 9, 2005

Don't waste time at the crux! I had more difficulty with this than with GREAT WHITE CRIME.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun climb with bomber pro. Great finger locks all the way up, but pay attention to your feet. I thought this climb was slightly easier than Great White Crime.
By Hamish Gowans
From: Golden, CO
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One climbing companion, who came from a Rumney/Shelf Road/Hip-Hop background, climbed it on all cams. After lowering, he proclaimed "I'm so over nuts!" So I climbed it next on all nuts in retort. After getting the moves wired, this route became our warmup at Turkey, and I think it's easier than Quivering Quill and comparable to the cruxes on Satyr's Asshole or Straw Turkey.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 9, 2006

On TR at the end of a long day, this was much easier, and less steep, than it looked. One face move at the crux. I may tell a different story when/if I come back to lead it, but perhaps not, as there are good stances just before and just after that one crux move.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 9, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This one never gets old.