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Vanishing Flakes 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Archer, Wells, Eaton
Page Views: 1,933
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Joe working up to the pin on Vanishing Flakes

Description 

On the left side of the main wall is a blank face with a fixed pin and a bolt. 20' of delicate slab climbing leads to a more moderate (5.5) trad finish.


Protection 

There are now two nice bolts at the top. The piton is ~40 years old, but has recently held falls. Who knows, maybe you'll be the lucky one who gets a souvenir. Frequently toproped by climbing up the 5.5 to the right.


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

According to the late Reese Martin (as of 1999), "The fixed pin is now rock solid. Clip it and you're in fat city."

Glued in perhaps?

UPDATE: I looked very closely at the piton and there is definitely what appears to be capsule-style glue around the hole where the piton penetrates the rock.


The bottom 15 feet of this route is very height dependent. Shorter climbers will find it very hard to move between the various positive holds.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 2, 2008

Well, it seems this crowd-pleaser slab climb is still living up to its name: the holds just keep vanishing. I climbed it this last weekend and noticed a conspicuous lack of certain holds, particularly the "rest" hold (diagonal rail/crimp to the left of the bad pocket) about 8 or 9 feet up. Is the climb now harder? It was for me, but that's only because my traditional sequence was botched due to the lack of the hold. I'd appreciate some outside consensus other than my narrow, chagrined perspective.
By Dan Hehnke
Jan 2, 2010

I agree with Andy that this could be a bit harder now. I used to climb it quite a bit between 2001-2005 or so and remember one better hold at the start, and possibly one other hold 9 ft. up or so. Though it still seems if you nail the right sequence it's right in the low/mid 11 range. Such a fun climb.
By Richard Shore
Jan 17, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Holds continue to vanish... But still so much fun
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The friction on this route was amazing yesterday. Maybe a slightly cool, damp day aids the stickiness... Even though the holds are few, there are many different variations that exist. Foot placement and balance is key.

I think going slightly right of the piton without moving too far left is standard, but I found going nearly directly above the piton to be a bit less strenuous.