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Disappearing Buttress
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Haul for Nothing T 
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Vanishing Act T 

Vanishing Act 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Maurice Horn, Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Andrew Carson Jan. 17, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 901
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Sep 10, 2009

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Looking up pitch 2.

Description 

Near the right side of the Disappearing Buttress south face are two attractive dihedrals. The route climbs the left one.
Start from broken ledges below the two dihedrals. Climb an easy and slightly brushy pitch up to the ledge at the base of the corners. 100'.
Climb a corner just left of the main leftmost dihedral for about 40', then step right into the dihedral as it widens into a chimney. Layback/chimney up the corner to the roof blocking progress and undercling/stem left to pass the roof. Continue up easier ground, going right to a belay at a big pine with a nice ledge on the crest of the buttress. 190'. A varied, beautiful pitch.
Climb the steep white face above the ledge, then continue up the varnished face. Above this black face, follow a finger crack in the white slab to the steepening headwall. Surmount a bulge at the base of the headwall and follow cracks leading to the left edge of the buttress and the top. The route finishes at the same point as does Prime Rib. 190'. An exciting pitch.
Some fragile rock can be expected, especially on the last pitch. The second and third pitch, both long, can be broken up if parties so choose. For purposes of avoiding rope drag, this strategy might be advantageous.


Location 

Descent: scramble left and up to gain the ramp leading over to the canyon and descend easily to the base.


Protection 

A standard rack to 4".



Photos of Vanishing Act Slideshow Add Photo
Cassondra in the chimney on P2. 20100213.
Cassondra in the chimney on P2. 20100213.
Bill Hotz arriving on top.
Bill Hotz arriving on top.
Larry & Cassondra following on P1.  20100213.
Larry & Cassondra following on P1. 20100213.
Looking down the crack in the slab of pitch 3.
Looking down the crack in the slab of pitch 3.
Comments on Vanishing Act Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Dec 5, 2010

We had a couple big holds snap off on us. I wouldn't pass up protection opportunities until it gets climbed more. Also, the crack on the face looked like a better option than going into the chimney.