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Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty 

Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Vanderklooster & Tucker Tech, Nov. 2000
Season: dry
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jan 4, 2010
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Start of the Stinky Wet Kitty...

Description 

Step up off the blocky slab and try to get some good pro in the semi mealy crack (maybe set a couple of pieces well). Pull on them, um, uhh, or climb past them and pro it up in the cracks above, finally turning the steep face over to the lower angle crack to slab.

Climb up slab to a promising corner system, place gear, and up ya go on kinda gritty rock (take care!). Save a cam/nut or two for the top of the formation for a belay anchor (medium cams worked well).

Note: this climb is rated 5.9 in the guidebook, but, we found a 5.8 A0 option available at the start, and, happily took it. Route is a bit sandy (sand baggy?).

Poor feet on crumbly holds adds some stinky.

Name of route probably modified from the original, which, can be had with minimal imagination. Meow! Poor Ben, what did he do to deserve all this? Ha ha.


Location 

Located just right (east) of the main Great Burrito formation. Follow the east edge of the main face of the Great Burrito up, jogging to the right up through some boulders, to gain the start of the route. Look for the short juggy face on the block (with a right facing corner) of the 5.4 route "Up the Down Staircase": this route starts just 30 feet right.

Look for the short, steep crack which starts off a four foot high slab below the route.

Walk and down climb to the east (climber's right) of the route.


Protection 

Standard rack.

No fixed gear, no anchors on top.



Photos of Vanderklooster's Stinky Wet Kitty Slideshow Add Photo
Start of the Stinky Wet Kitty
BETA PHOTO: Start of the Stinky Wet Kitty
Top of the Stinky Wet Kitty.  Take care on the final slab moves...
Top of the Stinky Wet Kitty. Take care on the fin...
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