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Frisky Cliff
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Borg, The S 
Orb, The S 
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Van Damage S 

Van Damage 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pink L. Bear
New Route: Yes
Season: All but winter
Page Views: 1,097
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Derek on the technical hand jams and laybacks mid-...

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Description 

Van Damage is the leftmost climb on Frisky Cliff, tucked up high in the slot. Begin by clipping the first bolt on The Orb (pre-clip is useful), move up into underclings in the hanging roof, then head left, passing six more bolts to anchors where the wall turns slabby.

The climb follows the flared, incipient crack-like feature, and the clips are close together to keep you off the back wall. OK, it's a bit 'gym-bolted,' but you really do want it that way, and as a result you'll need to incorporate a couple of tough clips into your sequence. On the flip side, you can sit right across from the route at the top of the slot and scope out every hold!

This is great, overhanging power-endurance climbing. It doesn't really let up from the ground to the anchor.

Location 

This is the leftmost route on Frisky Cliff, beginning on The Orb and heading left.

Protection 

Seven bolts—pre-clip the first or even second bolt if possible. A shoulder sling or extendo draw is useful on the second clip, for rope drag.


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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 27, 2011

Hilarious. I thought about bolting this line way back but felt it was much too close to the gully. Well done.
By Pinklebear
Oct 27, 2011

Classic! You could also have a special shirt sewn-up with a foam back, just in case your belayer is asleep at the wheel. But in all seriousness, having seen people take the falls at the hard moves, you end up stopping well short of the back of the gully...as long as you don't skip any clips.