Van Damage  5.13a/b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.13a/b [details] FA:  Pink L. Bear New Route:  Yes Season:  All but winter Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Oct 26, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Derek on the technical hand jams and laybacks mid-...

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Description 

Van Damage is the leftmost climb on Frisky Cliff, tucked up high in the slot. Begin by clipping the first bolt on The Orb (pre-clip is useful), move up into underclings in the hanging roof, then head left, passing six more bolts to anchors where the wall turns slabby.

The climb follows the flared, incipient crack-like feature, and the clips are close together to keep you off the back wall. OK, it's a bit 'gym-bolted,' but you really do want it that way, and as a result you'll need to incorporate a couple of tough clips into your sequence. On the flip side, you can sit right across from the route at the top of the slot and scope out every hold!

This is great, overhanging power-endurance climbing. It doesn't really let up from the ground to the anchor.

Location 

This is the leftmost route on Frisky Cliff, beginning on The Orb and heading left.

Protection 

Seven bolts—pre-clip the first or even second bolt if possible. A shoulder sling or extendo draw is useful on the second clip, for rope drag.