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Derek on the technical hand jams and laybacks mid-...
Van Damage is the leftmost climb on Frisky Cliff, tucked up high in the slot. Begin by clipping the first bolt on The Orb (pre-clip is useful), move up into underclings in the hanging roof, then head left, passing six more bolts to anchors where the wall turns slabby.
The climb follows the flared, incipient crack-like feature, and the clips are close together to keep you off the back wall. OK, it's a bit 'gym-bolted,' but you really do want it that way, and as a result you'll need to incorporate a couple of tough clips into your sequence. On the flip side, you can sit right across from the route at the top of the slot and scope out every hold!
This is great, overhanging power-endurance climbing. It doesn't really let up from the ground to the anchor.
This is the leftmost route on Frisky Cliff, beginning on The Orb and heading left.
Seven bolts—pre-clip the first or even second bolt if possible. A shoulder sling or extendo draw is useful on the second clip, for rope drag.
|By Peter Beal|
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 27, 2011
Hilarious. I thought about bolting this line way back but felt it was much too close to the gully. Well done.
Oct 27, 2011
Classic! You could also have a special shirt sewn-up with a foam back, just in case your belayer is asleep at the wheel. But in all seriousness, having seen people take the falls at the hard moves, you end up stopping well short of the back of the gully...as long as you don't skip any clips.