Van Allen Belt 5.7 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, 1980s |
| Submitted By: | Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004 |
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Billy running it out on Van Allen Belt.
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Description This is a decent route, but a somewhat tricky lead for the grade, with some loose rock.
Start in the very smooth, varnished dihedral about 40 feet left of the Shady Ladies corner, and 20 feet left of Magellanic Cloud. The initial moves are a little tricky, and there is no protection for about 20 feet or so, hence the serious rating. It's not really too bad. Later on, there potential for your rope to get stuck in a crack and cause SERIOUS drag, so watch for that. The last moves are on some crumbly rock with less-than-ideal protection. End at the communal belay ledge.
Protection Standard trad rack
Billy looking solid for the exit of Van Allen Belt...
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Tony Doyle cleans up the Van Allen Belt.
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| Comments on Van Allen Belt |
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By Sandro
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.7
| This is a great route with wild exposure for its grade |
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Apr 8, 2007
| the drag is not that bad if you extend your placements properly. i would not give this an R rating. i'm still a young buck to trad, but i laced this thing up tight. |
By Aaron S
Apr 24, 2007
| I mean, it's no Cold September Corner, but the pro is pretty thin up top. |
By TedV
From: Lost Wages
Nov 9, 2008
| You should use a double rope system with this route so as to totally eliminate rope drag. The traverse is easy, but if you did slip it would hurt. Still gets an R because of that. Fun climb, but kind of convoluted |
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13
| The start for the climb is unprotected for about 20 feet and then the end was pretty spotty as well. The runout ending was quite juggy, so not bad. |
By Franzalopolis
From: Mass.
Mar 5, 2013
| Runout to start, but nice ledge once done. Lookout for rope drag cause the climb meanders left and right under a roof. Then you hit the awesome exposure. Sun and wind hits you all at once when you are about 60-70 feet up. Can be a bit runout near the end. |
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