This is a decent route, but a somewhat tricky lead for the grade, with some loose rock.
Start in the very smooth, varnished dihedral about 40 feet left of the Shady Ladies corner, and 20 feet left of Magellanic Cloud. The initial moves are a little tricky, and there is no protection for about 20 feet or so, hence the serious rating. It's not really too bad. Later on, there potential for your rope to get stuck in a crack and cause SERIOUS drag, so watch for that. The last moves are on some crumbly rock with less-than-ideal protection. End at the communal belay ledge.
Standard trad rack
Billy looking solid for the exit of Van Allen Belt...
Tony Doyle cleans up the Van Allen Belt.
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This is a great route with wild exposure for its grade
|By Josh Audrey|
From: LAS VEGAS
Apr 8, 2007
the drag is not that bad if you extend your placements properly. i would not give this an R rating. i'm still a young buck to trad, but i laced this thing up tight.
|By Aaron S|
Apr 24, 2007
I mean, it's no Cold September Corner, but the pro is pretty thin up top.
From: Lost Wages
Nov 9, 2008
You should use a double rope system with this route so as to totally eliminate rope drag. The traverse is easy, but if you did slip it would hurt. Still gets an R because of that. Fun climb, but kind of convoluted
|By Edward Pyune|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
The start for the climb is unprotected for about 20 feet and then the end was pretty spotty as well. The runout ending was quite juggy, so not bad.
Mar 5, 2013
Runout to start, but nice ledge once done. Lookout for rope drag cause the climb meanders left and right under a roof. Then you hit the awesome exposure. Sun and wind hits you all at once when you are about 60-70 feet up. Can be a bit runout near the end.
|By Ben Townsend|
Nov 18, 2013
I got a good Tricam in a pocket just before the climbing got serious. After that, I don't recall any issues with the protection at all. Pretty easy for the grade. The pitch is just over 100', but a one-rope rappel works fine.