Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Vampire Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.E. 
Blood Doll 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The 
Chupacabra 
Climb-Eye-Knight 
Crack of Desperation 
Fear of Sunlight 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The 
Heart of the Narrows 
Le Stat 
Monkey's Sister 
Monkey's Uncle 
Pin Cushion 
Stage Fright 
That's Weak 
Trash It and Move On 
Vampire, The 
Wanker 

Vampire Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 39.997, -105.4139 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,980
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
loading weather...
BETA PHOTO: Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.

L->R:

A. Climb Eye Knight, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.
AA. The Bureau, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.
B. The Wanker, 12, 3p, bolts.
BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
C1. A.C.E., 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
C2. Monkey's Uncle, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
C3. Monkey's Sister, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Red Sonja, 7, 2p, gear.
F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.
G. Heart Of The Narrows, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.
H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.
I. That's Weak, 10, 1p, bolts.
II1. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.
J. Chupacabra, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.
K. The Vampire, 9, 4p, 350', gear.
KK1. Crack Of Desperation, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
KK2. Trash It And Move On, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.
KK3. Stage Fright, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.
M. Pin Cushion, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.
MM. Blood Doll, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.
O. Fear of Sunlight, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.
P. Le Stat, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.
PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.

Crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow

A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
B. Orange You Lichen It?, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.


Getting There 

About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.


Descent 

You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',6],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vampire Rock:
Crack of Desperation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
That's Weak   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Chupacabra   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Monkey's Uncle   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Stage Fright   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Trash It and Move On   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   
Le Stat   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
The Bureau (Pitch 1)   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Wanker   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch   
Heart of the Narrows   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Classics in Vampire Rock

Featured Route For Vampire Rock
North Face of Vampire Rock. photo: Bob Horan.

The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock
This is a great route on super stone. Do That's Weak to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can climb ?That's Weak?...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Vampire Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the summit.
Looking down from the summit.
Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
Vampire from Animal World. The large, left-leaning, left-facing corner at the top is the third pitch of the Vampire route.
Vampire from Animal World. The large, left-leaning...
Luke on the Vampire Tyrolean.
Luke on the Vampire Tyrolean.
Vampire Rock.
Vampire Rock.
Comments on Vampire Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By D Bueno
May 12, 2005

In 1981, a climbing partner of mine asked me to go up the canyon and climb on this rock. I was busy and could not go. It turned out to be very fortuitous as he went with his girlfriend and found a decomposing corpse at the base of the route. Apparently, this poor bloke had been up there for some time and was very advanced in his decomposition. Dave said that he was still wearing his EBs and there was a chalk bag attached to his belt. Would suggest taking a rope if you climb here as the rock is very slick with lichen and there are some very loose holds.

By Jordan Wood
Apr 22, 2006

Has anyone had problems finding the walk off? I did "The Vampire" today, and had a hell of a time finding it. Actually, I don't think we ever did. Eventually, we made it down, but it wasn't exactly a trail. The Rossiter guide made it sound obvious and easy to find. I didn't find that to be the case.

By Rich Farnham
Jun 10, 2011

We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with it's multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol is directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field. As you get near the crag you will pick up a trail that runs left across the base of the crag.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jun 8, 2012

I may have lost a GriGri2 (orange) here a few weeks ago. If anyone finds it, I would be eternally grateful if you could get it back to me! Thanks, Scotty