Vampire Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
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It appears that Vampire Rock does not see many visitors. The access trail is subtle, and much of the rock has lichen. That said, there are a number of multi-pitch trad & sport routes that offer a challenge. This was once the site of ice & rock climber conflict which effectively assisted ending the ice farming days of Boulder Canyon.
A. Climb Eye Knight
, 12, 3p, bolts, P1 10.
AA. The Bureau
, 12, 1-3p, bolts & gear.
B. The Wanker
, 12, 3p, bolts.
BB. Nothing But Trouble, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
C2. Monkey's Uncle
, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
C3. Monkey's Sister
, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Red Sonja, 7, 2p, gear.
F. Transylverlina, 12, 4p, bolts, P1 9.
G. Heart Of The Narrows
, 12b, 2p, bolts, P1 10.
H. B.C. 8, 1p?, gear.
I. That's Weak
, 10, 1p, bolts.
II1. The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked
, 12-, 2p, 150', bolts & gear.
, 10+, 2p, 140', gear.
K. The Vampire
, 9, 4p, 350', gear.
KK1. Crack Of Desperation
, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
KK2. Trash It And Move On
, 11, 2p, 170', bolts & gear.
KK3. Stage Fright
, 11-, 2p, 160', gear.
M. Pin Cushion
, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', bolts.
MM. Blood Doll
, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
N. One Withered Arm, 9, 1p, gear.
O. Fear of Sunlight
, 1p, 11+, 70', bolts.
P. Le Stat
, 11+, 2p, 140', bolts.
PP. Fear of Le Stat, 1p var, 11-, bolts.
Crag betweeen Vampire and Black Widow
A. 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
B. Orange You Lichen It?
, 11- PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.
About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock
, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. Vampire Rock is about 100 yards back, on the opposite side of the river. Cross the creek where appropriate, and try to hug the creek to find the trail. Note, the large gully that runs down the right side of Vampire Rock. When in line with that, find the trail and hike up the gully. Once at the base of the rock, there is an imperfect but present trail that hugs the base of the cliff.
You can descend in a loose gully between Vampire & Black Widow Slab to the right. It does involve 3rd class scrambling.
Weather station 4.7 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Vampire Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Vampire Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Vampire Rock:
That's Weak 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Chupacabra 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Featured Route For Vampire Rock
The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CO
: Boulder Canyon
: Vampire Rock
This is a great route on super stone. Do That's Weak to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can climb ?That's Weak?...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Vampire from Animal World. The large, left-leaning...
Luke on the Vampire Tyrolean.
BETA PHOTO: Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
Looking down from the summit.
By D Bueno
May 12, 2005
In 1981, a climbing partner of mine asked me to go up the canyon and climb on this rock. I was busy and could not go. It turned out to be very fortuitous as he went with his girlfriend and found a decomposing corpse at the base of the route. Apparently, this poor bloke had been up there for some time and was very advanced in his decomposition. Dave said that he was still wearing his EBs and there was a chalk bag attached to his belt. Would suggest taking a rope if you climb here as the rock is very slick with lichen and there are some very loose holds.
By Jordan Wood
Apr 22, 2006
Has anyone had problems finding the walk off? I did "The Vampire" today, and had a hell of a time finding it. Actually, I don't think we ever did. Eventually, we made it down, but it wasn't exactly a trail. The Rossiter guide made it sound obvious and easy to find. I didn't find that to be the case.
By Rich Farnham
Jun 10, 2011
We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with it's multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.
There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks everyone!
Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol is directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field. As you get near the crag you will pick up a trail that runs left across the base of the crag.
By Scotty Nelson
Jun 8, 2012
I may have lost a GriGri2 (orange) here a few weeks ago. If anyone finds it, I would be eternally grateful if you could get it back to me! Thanks, Scotty