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Valley of the Moon

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Valley of the Moon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.631, -116.0788 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,085
Administrators: Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 16, 2007
Forecast:
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Chance of a Thunderstorm
89° | 64°
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me on a great 10 @ VOM
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A miniature version of Joshua Tree right at the border between San Diego and Imperial Counties. Also on the border of Mexico! Higher elevation keeps this area slightly cooler than close-by desert areas. A mix of sport and trad routes with an emphasis on sport. See Dave Kennedy's guide for more detailed information.


Getting There 

Requires 4WD vehicle. 8 east, exit In-Ko-Pah Park Rd. Two qick rights gets you going West on the 80 for about 100 yards where you enter the dirt road on the south side of the road. Head leftish on this to end up heading south east. The road number is 155. Through some hills for 2+ miles and park at a turn - around. Do not drive into the areas posted as wilderness. Continue hiking down the road for ~1/2 hour to formations reminiscent of Joshua Tree.


Climbing Season


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',13],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valley of the Moon:
Look No Hands   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Sundagger Wall
Crackerman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sundagger Wall
Dog Leg Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   Tombstone
Tec-9   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Patina Wall
Borderline   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Patina Wall
Full Auto   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Patina Wall
Shortest Straw   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Headbanger Wall
Browse More Classics in Valley of the Moon

Featured Route For Valley of the Moon
Borderline

Borderline 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : San Diego County : ... : Patina Wall
The first route to be put up on the Patina Wall. Just right of Tec-9. The top is entertaining with finger-lockoffs in small cracks. Goes through mostly dark brown patina towards the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Valley of the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Survery Marker
Survery Marker
one of the great sport routes at VOM
one of the great sport routes at VOM
Uncannily Josh-like piles at VotM
Uncannily Josh-like piles at VotM
Evening light, Valley of the Moon
Evening light, Valley of the Moon
Matt @ VOM - the poor man's Jtree
Matt @ VOM - the poor man's Jtree
awesome boulder problem on the way to the patina wall
awesome boulder problem on the way to the patina w...
Keli on Distant Warning (5.10d), Valley of the Moon
Keli on Distant Warning (5.10d), Valley of the Moo...
Formation on which the Headbanger Wall resides.
Formation on which the Headbanger Wall resides.
I based this map off of the guidebook, google earth, and my own experiences.  If there are any inacuracies, or you think I shouldn't have posted it, let me know.
BETA PHOTO: I based this map off of the guidebook, google eart...
Valley of the Moon
Valley of the Moon
Unsent crack at VOM
Unsent crack at VOM
Mike Hack getting ready for the traverse on 'Bro's B4 bolts' 5.8
Mike Hack getting ready for the traverse on 'Bro's...
It goes from face to hands to wide to fingers.
It goes from face to hands to wide to fingers.
Lots of rock, Valley of the Moon
Lots of rock, Valley of the Moon
Keli high on Paradigm Shift (5.11b), Valley of the Moon
Keli high on Paradigm Shift (5.11b), Valley of the...
Eric enjoying some fun face climbing at Valley of the Moon.
Eric enjoying some fun face climbing at Valley of ...
Comments on Valley of the Moon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler Bowser
From: Red River
Aug 25, 2007

My wife and I went on a scouting trip to VOM Aug 24th. We didnt take gear because we thought it would be too hot. It actually was quite nice and climbable in the shade and in the evening.

There must have been a recent fire that had burned 99% of the foliage around all the best climbing including the patina. Too bad, what a beautiful remote place this is.

Tyler and April

By GregR
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 14, 2011

Awesome place, with some nice routes, hopefully someone has a good topo with the names of the routes, because I have no idea what routes I am climbing. I do know where tech-9 is but and I would rate it a 5.8.. I lead the route that is two over to the left from tech-9 the crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Does anyone know this routes name and what it is rated at?

By jack howard
Mar 27, 2011

full auto 10d. tec 9 is 10a

By GregR
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 6, 2011

Really tech-9 5.10a? No way! its at most a 5.9...

Should be going out there again, found a couple long routes on headbanger wall, looks like fun. Does anybody know the names of these routes, I saw at least 3 maybe 4.

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Aug 22, 2011

Just got back from a couple days in VOM...super rad! Amazing how similar it is to Josh, but in the middle of nowhere. Talked to a couple Border Patrol agents who said that VOM is one of the most popular spots for crossings and human trafficking.