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Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat

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Anvil, The 
Arrowhead Spire 
Barricade Wall 
Brides of Mine 
Craken Butte 
Eagle Plume Tower 
Goosenecks of the San Juan  
Hand of Puttima, The 
Hen House , The 
Hidden Tower 
Juniper Butte 
Lady in the Bathtub 
McYetta's Loaf 
Mexican Hat 
North Tower 
Petard Tower 
Putterman in a Bathtub 
Putterman on the Throne 
Putterman Residence, The 
Seven Drunken Sailors 
Sitting Hen 
Tides of Mind 
Tighten Up Tower 
Tom-Tom Tower Area 

Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.2549, -109.8336 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,848
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002
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One of the towers in the Valley from a balloon

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a remote area of high adventure climbing. Mexican Hat is one of the easiest desert summits to reach, and the approach is casual. Valley of the Gods is notorious for loose scary climbing, and this beautiful area is pretty much deserted. Well worth the long drive - you'll have any route here to yourself.

Getting There 

From Moab, take US 191 south past Monitcello and Blanding to US 163. Head west towards the town of Mexican Hat. The Valley of the Gods road is marked, and Mexican Hat is totally obvious on the south side of the highway. This is not a short drive - it is several hours from Moab.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.5 miles from here

44 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',7],['5.9',9],['5.10',15],['5.11',6],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat:
Bandito Route   C1     Aid, 1 pitch, 40'   Mexican Hat
Boracho Grande   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Seven Drunken Sailors
The Original Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Juniper Butte
Angel's Fear   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2-     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'   Lady in the Bathtub
It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad Putterman   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 450'   Putterman in a Bathtub
Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   Eagle Plume Tower
(a place in france where the) "Naked Ladies Dance"   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   Barricade Wall
Supercalifragilisticexpialiputterman   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400'   Putterman on the Throne
Loosen Up   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Tighten Up Tower
Tides of Mind- North Face   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 60'   Tides of Mind
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat

Featured Route For Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat
Rock Climbing Photo: South face of Eagle Plume

Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Eagle Plume Tower
Pitch 1: Begin up a loose 5.8 crack, then a 5.7 off-width to a large ledge. Pitch 2: Climb broken rock to a small ledge at the base of a small, clean, tight dihedral. Climb the dihedral then traverse a few feet right to a thin crack(blue alien), that guards the anchors.(5.10)Pitch 3:Climb up some loose rock in the right crack to a dihedral ramp with fun jamming. Then climb up a loose bedding seam to a pin and traverse left to a belay on top of the seam. This is the best pitch on the route.(5.1...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A night shot of North Tower and Arrowhead Spire.
A night shot of North Tower and Arrowhead Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Putterman on the Throne and Bathtub in Valley of t...
Putterman on the Throne and Bathtub in Valley of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top of the Anvil
From the top of the Anvil
Rock Climbing Photo: A panorama showing some of the towers and formatio...
A panorama showing some of the towers and formatio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset
Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Valley of the Gods, stormy day. On right, Eagle Pl...
Valley of the Gods, stormy day. On right, Eagle Pl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Valley OF The Gods in the winter fog Jan. 2009
Valley OF The Gods in the winter fog Jan. 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagle Plume Tower (left) & North Tower (right) in ...
Eagle Plume Tower (left) & North Tower (right) in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Puttermans on left, Eagle Plum Tower on right, vie...
Puttermans on left, Eagle Plum Tower on right, vie...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from Valley of the Gods looking South into Mo...
View from Valley of the Gods looking South into Mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben K tossin the ropes off of the Anvil.
Ben K tossin the ropes off of the Anvil.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping new route on Putterman, Eagle Plume Tower ...
Scoping new route on Putterman, Eagle Plume Tower ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Seven drunk sailors anyone know where the real rou...
Seven drunk sailors anyone know where the real rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's to core shots and Guinness Black Lager!
Here's to core shots and Guinness Black Lager!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rooster Butte before sunrise. Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Rooster Butte before sunrise. Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexican Hat Rock
Mexican Hat Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Valley of the Gods
Valley of the Gods
Rock Climbing Photo: Puttermans and Eagle Plume
Puttermans and Eagle Plume
Rock Climbing Photo: Oljato Monument Valley, Gooseneck SP (San Juan Riv...
Oljato Monument Valley, Gooseneck SP (San Juan Riv...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagle Plum Tower from south-east
Eagle Plum Tower from south-east
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexican Hat
BETA PHOTO: Mexican Hat

Comments on Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 29, 2002
We climbed the Prayer Stick (5.10+) at Comb Ridge. Just a few miles west of Bluff, the climb goes up the south side of a pillar (@200')in 3 pitches. The middle pitch is the crux. Bring at least 3 #3, 2 #4 and 1 #5 camalots to be safe. It is called a lieback by Cameron Burns in his Selected Desert Climbs. I think the follower could but I did it as an OW. It felt solid 11. Two bolts at the top made it a lieback at long last. I wouldn't do it again due to the portions of soft rock, otherwise, very exciting. Manuel
By Roy Suggett
May 14, 2013
What a great place!

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