Valley Massif has a collection of good multi-pitch traditional crack climbs. The guidebook for this area declares Valley Massif as one of the loveliest areas in Vedauwoo. I have to agree. This area is made up primarily of two faces--the Northwest face and the Southeast face. The Northwest face stays shaded most of the day and the opposite is true for the Southeast face. The Southeast face has some nesting birds of prey so check for closures. The walk off for most of the routes is to the Northeast.
To get to this area follow the Turtle Rock trail that starts in the parking area near the base of Walt's Wall. The trailhead is on the left side of the parking area when facing Walt's. Follow this trail around until you see the Valley Massif rock outcroppings across the valley. You will have to cross some beaver dams to get there.
21 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Valley Massif
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valley Massif:
Sunny Day 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Nail 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Screw 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches
Hammer 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Zipper 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 3 pitches
Hooker 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Valley Massif
Tool Or Die 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a WY
: Valley Massif
This is probably the finest sustained handcrack that I have done to date in Vedauwoo.The route lies on the West side fo the Valley Massif. You must climb the first Pitch of the route "Hammer" to a bolted belay to get to Tool Or Die. Hammer is a fun first pitch (5.7 or 5.8), but as I have only done 1/2 of said route, and I am sure many have done the whole route, I do not feel qualified to write about the rest here. Perhaps, someone who has done the whole route can add it to the si...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Southeast face of Valley Massif.
Hiking in on a beautiful fall day, with no one els...
We for the life of us couldn't believe there was n...
Aspens seen on the way to Valley Massif.
Enjoying a brew after Zipper.
Ethan climbing Monkey Wrench at Valley Massif.
Ethan about to crux on the Monkey Wrench.
|Comments on Valley Massif
|By Darin Lang|
Sep 24, 2001
Just a note on approaches for those using Heel & Toe. Things have changed a little bit in the Valley Massif area (and the Reynolds area, for that matter)since the publication of H & T, probably for the better if you go to Vedauwoo seeking solitude.
Viable approaches include: (1) as described above, take the Turtle Rock trail from the parking lot below Walt's Wall and past Holy Saturday; (2) take the Turtle Rock Trail from the east trailhead near the beaver ponds, around the Turtle Rock massif, and across any convenient beaver dam; (3) hike in from the Reynolds Road closure point (old #700D); and last but not least (4) take a good trail that drops down to Valley Massif from the SE corner of Poland Hill. The latter option probably involves the least "swamp-whacking", but is uphill all the way out.
Right now is a great time to hit Valley Massif if you're in the area. As of 9/23, the approach was bug-free and mostly dry, the aspens had turned, and there was nobody around except for the elk.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Jun 5, 2004
a hidden gem. this rock provides a mystical experience that gives vedauwoo its character and charm.
|By shad O'Neel|
Jul 14, 2004
nice easy and free walk from the Poland hill parking area.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2007
Approach we used: Take the Turtle rock trail past the beaver ponds. Continue on the excellent trail passing a few ponds and swampy areas. Meet up with a well defined trail going left (marked with a cairn)This will skirt a pond. Follow this to the base of Valley Massif. Pretty much dry the whole way. To approach the actual climbs it is easist to go in from the far left of the formation, finding your way through the inevitable Veduawoo boulders. It is also possible to get to the climbs from the right but you will have to do some canyoneering type moves through a very narrow slot. This is fun as well, and is also required to get back to the base if you top out on routes and walk off.
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
Coming out to this formation is well-worth the ~45-minute mellow approach. Gorgeous grasslands and views will bring you (especially on a weekday) to a shade-offering climbing paradise where you may find yourself alone to enough a bevy of moderate classics).
Note that after the main trail passes left around the Walt's/Jurrasic Park/etc. formations, wait until you reach a very obvious trail junction with a hard-right rocky turn option before turning left towards the crag. Though "The Voo" guidebook referencing three "beaver dam" crossings, in July we only crossed mostly-dry marshes here to find the crag.
After the aforementioned left path turn, the trail will be faint but will lead the way if you match it up with the guidebook's area map.