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El Pati 
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L'Olla 
La Siuranella 

Valley Crags 


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Elevation: 2,100'
Lat, Long: 41.2632, -359.0608 Map
Page Views: 14,136. Good page?   
Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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The Valley Crags from the village.

Description 

The Valley Crags are the collection of cliffs located along the winding road that leads up to the village of Siurana. These cliffs tend to be longer than the cliffs of the Village Crags, and they offer a great deal more shade, making them a popular choice on warm days. Since many of these cliffs are nestled in a tight canyon, they are also less exposed to the elements. If you're after sun, consider Espero Primavera or El Pati. If its shade you require, its tough to beat La Siuranella and Lapador. El Cargol gets morning shade & L'Olla gets shade in the morning & late afternoon.

Every type of route can be found here, from engaging, low-angle slabs like "Espero Primavera" at its namesake crag, to short burly overhangs like "Bistec de Biceps" at L'Olla, to the legendary 40-meter-long overhanging "La Rambla" (9a+) at El Pati. Routes range in difficulty from ~5.10a to literally 5.15a. There are not nearly as many crags or as many routes as the Village Crags, but the quality is top-notch, and many of Siurana's best climbs are found here.


Getting There 

All of the Valley Crags are approached from a small pullout on the north side of the road that connects Cornudella de Montsant to the Siurana Village. This pullout is 2/3 of a kilometer up the hill from the "Kilometer 4" marker (or 1/3 of a Km downhill from the 5 Km marker). This is approximately 4.7 KM up the hill from the C242. This is just a short distance up the hill from a sign indicating a hot water font. The pullout is small and fills up most days, but other parking is availble along the road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valley Crags:
Espero Primavera   5.10a     Sport, 2 pitches, 115 feet   Espero Primavera
Marieta de L'ull Viu   5.10c     Sport, 90 feet   Espero Primavera
El Caganer   5.10d     Sport, 40 feet   L'Olla
Tan San Fot   5.10d     Sport, 90 feet   Espero Primavera
Camparos Toca el Dos   5.11a     Sport, 90 feet   Espero Primavera
Pocapena   5.11b     Sport, 85 feet   La Siuranella
Mayling   5.11b     Sport, 50 feet   L'Olla
Se Miapaga La Baldufa   5.11d     Sport, 90 feet   Espero Primavera
Remena Nena   5.12a     Sport, 90 feet   Espero Primavera
Crosta Panic   5.12a     Sport, 2 pitches, 80 feet   El Pati
Valga'm deu quin Patar    5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   L'Olla
Bistec de Biceps   5.12c     Sport, 45 feet   L'Olla
Mandragora   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Espero Primavera
Ya Os Vale   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   L'Olla
Tagediebe   5.12d     Sport, 50 feet   L'Olla
L'Escamarla   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   La Siuranella
La Cara Que No Miente   5.13c     Sport, 40 feet   L'Olla
Browse More Classics in Valley Crags

Featured Route For Valley Crags
Resting up for the crux of Valga'm deu....

Valga'm deu quin Patar 5.12a  International : Spain : ... : L'Olla
This stout number is one of the longest routes at L'Olla and one of the better 12a's at Siruana. However, this technical line is quite sharp.Make non-trivial moves to an unusual undercling pocket at the high first bolt. More tricky, thin holds lead to a horizontal break and a good shake. A few easier moves lead to a big jug at the third bolt, just below the crux. Make desperate moves between slopey crimps to gain larger pockets above. Cruise to the top of the wall & mantle over to locate th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Valley Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Map of the Valley Crags.

Map of the Valley Crags.

Sector El Pati. with a climber on...something hard.

Sector El Pati. with a climber on...something hard...

El Pati & El Cargol from La Siuranella.  La Rambla (9a+) & Broadway (8c+) are at the far left.  El Cargol is the section of cliff with the black streaks at the top (and the area to the right).

El Pati & El Cargol from La Siuranella. La Rambla...