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A great sustained pitch that climbs the face right of sole control and left of asses and elbows. Name comes from a term that was once used in Yosemite to poke fun of the self-righteous crowd that presided over the Valley. Cashiers Valley (NC in general) is not that much different.
Start by climbing the first pitch of asses and elbows to the last bolt. Instead of moving right, traverse left to a stance and a pin/gear belay. Alternate start is to climb pitch 1of scars and make an easy traverse right to the belay.
Climb the excellent face past 6 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor at about 200'. This pitch has numerous cruxes in the 5.10 range and is probably similar in difficulty to something like paralleling. Be sure to have doubles in cams from small tcu's to hand size cams. It should be noted that bolt 2 & 3 were added after the initial ascent, in addition to significant improvment of several shallow TCU placements. The pitch was made safer but it still retains a bit of spice.
Doubles in small tcu's to hand size.
By Drew Dekle
Nov 10, 2014
just eyeballed this today - on my list