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Valley 5.8 S 

Valley 5.8 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marty Lewis, Charlie Johnson, Mike Cann
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

A clean dihedral with an arching layback crack that pulls an overhang onto a technical upper face.

As legend has it, Bachar commented that it would be 5.8 in The Valley after doing it. Likely, it will seem 5.10 enough for most people, and it ranks as one of the best of it's grade in the gorge.

Originally it was a 2 bolt climb, so feel free to break the cams out.

Location 

The obvious layback crack.

Protection 

7 bolts.


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By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Jan 12, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Amazing how you can smear on that white crap through the undercling section. It seems way too slick to trust.
By Dastruption
Mar 22, 2009

Super fun climb, sort of unique climbing, so cool we did it twice.