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Valldemossa
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Upper Left Bay 

Valldemossa 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 1, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Mike cleans Sulphi at the top of [[Va...

Description 

Valldemossa has more than 50 mainly moderate sport routes and a trad route or two spread over a few different areas. The crag actually intersects MA-1131 as it snakes its way from Valldemossa down to the seaside town of Port de'Valldemossa. This has its pluses and minuses The views of the valley and sea are incredible, but you belay and lower into the small one lane wide, two lane road for several of the routes. Gawkers and car noise can also be an annoyance at the main crag.

According to locals, there are regular break-ins to cars. Do not leave anything of value in your car. Leave your car with the glove compartment open and any shade over the cargo area of your vehicle removed to show that there is nothing worth stealing.


Getting There 

From the town of Valldemossa, travel west on MA-1130 which becomes MA-10 for .8 km or so. Follow signs to Port de Valldemossa and make a right-hand turn onto MA-1131. This road starts off looking completely serviceable, but is quickly reduced to a single car width with occasional pull-outs where a second car can pass. Drive slowly, open your windows and honk when navigating the blind turns. The main crag meets the road approximately a kilometer after the turn. There is a small pull-out right after the road passes under a section of the cliff.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valldemossa:
Intrepido   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Main area
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Featured Route For Valldemossa
Anna at the start, her left hand using the wide crack mentioned in the description.

Intrepido 5.11a  International : Spain : ... : Main area
Start up the face just to the right of a wide right leaning crack, using the crack. The book says that the crux is the beginning, but I thought that the last 10-15 feet was the business (at least, that's how it felt on TR). ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International