Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Westside
Select Route:
Valkyrie Fallen 

Valkyrie Fallen 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: Eric Whitbeck on May 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A random trucker passing through on I40 goes for t...

Description 

A steep face with good holds. Start matched on the 3/4 inch wide edge/rail low and left.


Location 

Follow the ridge staying on the right (north) side of the rocks and you should see a problem that follows a striking seam and is a bit tall. That is Carlito's Way V4 named after the legendary Carlo. This takes ten minutes from the parking. Keep following the band and just above that there is a nice cube sitting on a rock bench with small knobs covering the face. Walk a few more feet and you should be on the plateau splitting the Westside proper from Valhalla, the upper area. Look straight up at a pair of two large boulders about ten more minutes up the hill. You will pass a number of other boulders on the way that have chalk on them. Valkyrie Fallen is under the first one although it faces the other way and you can't see it till you get on its west face. Total time is 20 minutes if you find the best way marked by cairns, thirty if you get off track. The trail is fairly steep.


Protection 

You actually don't need a pad for this problem but you want one for anything else in the area.



Photos of Valkyrie Fallen Slideshow Add Photo
William in a picture from way back.
William in a picture from way back.
Comments on Valkyrie Fallen Add Comment
Show which comments
By claude.
From: ABQ, NM
May 16, 2011

I was pleasantly surprised to stumble across this problem several weeks ago while tromping around up there. Really cool holds, nice movement on good rock, plus it's steep! Definitely worth the hike.

By Eric Whitbeck
May 17, 2011

Claude, if you are back in the neighborhood there are a few interesting projects that you might try. There is a nice boulder just north and east of VF that has an overhanging west face on it with some flat holds that lead up into a seam. It is easy to find because the east side has a really thin seam out an overhanging corner. I did some lines on the boulder next to it. My guess is V10 or so. The other really nice project is on the face just left of Carlito's Way. A good jug leads to some horrible crimps and it appears if you can pull off the crimps then you can access the upper face. This is a really nice face just begging to be climbed. The overhanging blunt prow just right of VF is also a project, but you must have seen that. Any luck?

By claude.
From: ABQ, NM
May 17, 2011

I don't really remember looking over to the right...I'll have to go back and have another look, there is a lot of cool looking things there though! How far is Carlito's Way from VF? I probably saw it, but I can't place it.

By Eric Whitbeck
May 18, 2011

Carlito's Way is visible from the wash north of the rock band that forms the lower section of the ridge at about the same contour as the parking lot. Walk over the little ridge next to the cars, identify the boulder just west with the big knobs on the north face (2minutes), keep walking west without getting sucked south or down hill. As you get across the canyon, you should be able to see a broken band of rock ranging in height from about 8'to 15'. Head for the right side of the band and look for a tall lay back seam that exits to a big knob on a face. You can't miss it if you are north of the rock. This problem is Carlito's Way which is a classic for the canyon. Five feet left is the face that I mentioned as a project. Approach time is under ten. If you go too far you get on the plateau/bench that sits under VF. If you find it, you can warm up below it on the band of rock I call the Westside. There are about 8 problems from V0-V3 with the central line, The Westsider, being the best. It starts on a chalky jug, moves through a crack, a big sloper, and then a tough mantle. These are all about 50' east of Carlito's Way. Someday I will put together a topo, but the nature of the area makes that task fairly daunting. Have fun and keep me posted on anything new you do out there.

By claude.
From: ABQ, NM
May 19, 2011

Thanks for the beta Eric! I'm hoping to get out this weekend, maybe I'll go scope it out.

By Eric Whitbeck
May 20, 2011

No rush, those boulders have been ignored for a long time. I will post a simple topo tonight that might help locating the different lines and projects. I will identify all the best lines that I tried but could not do.

By Sandiaman
Sep 12, 2011

Where did this thing come from? A real problem. Bring some skin, technique, and finger power.