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East Gully 
Northeast Ridge 
South Prow 


YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Summer
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Tits McGee on Aug 6, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Red - alternate start.
Yellow - traditional line.


The route ascends the direct south face of the Sharkstooth. P1 and P2 gain the spire while P3 climbs through loose, wet, and overhanging chimneys (crux). P4 continues up overhanging corners. P5 gains the ledge connecting the South Prow traverse ledge. From here, continue up the South Prow trending right to the summit.

P1 - ascend a dirty chimney to the left of the Petit Grepon.

P1 alternate - climb corners on the buttress to the left of the Petit. This avoids the dirty chimney (5.7).

P2 - move the belay across the talus to the base of a left-facing cihedral.

P2 alternate - climb left of chimney capped by huge boulder, cross talus. (60m, 5.4) Bump the belay up another 100 feet to base of left-facing dihedral.

P3 - climb through blocky, loose, wet, and lichen covered overhanging corners and chimneys (5.8).

P4 - continue up overhanging corners with more loose and lichen covered rock (5.7+/5.8).

P5 - climb up the final corner system to gain the ledge of the South Prow.

P6-12 - follow the South Prow (5.7) or Southeast face (right of the prow - 5.6) to the summit.


The route ascends the South Face of the Sharkstooth and links up with the South Prow route. The traditional 1st pitch is in the dirty chimney in between the Sharkstooth and the Petit Grepon. The alternate starts can be found on the low buttress to the left of the Petit. Pitch one of our line ascended a blocky corner on the right side of the buttress.

Descent: continue up the South Prow or SE Ridge to the summit. Two (60m) double rope and one (60m) single rope rappels get you down the East Gully.

NOTE: the descent puts you on the Andrews Creek side of the spires. Be prepared to carry everything with you on your climb.


Standard alpine rack - Wires up to #3 Camalot. A #4 could be useful but is not necessary.

Photos of Valhalla Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of P5 - to gain the South Prow.
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of P5 - to gain the South Prow.
Alternate start (5.7) on the low buttress to the left of the Petit Grepon.
BETA PHOTO: Alternate start (5.7) on the low buttress to the l...
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