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 ADVANCED
Apple Cider
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apple Cider T 
Birthday Crack T 
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 
Chingadero S 
Contortionist T 
Corrections, The T,S 
Demolition Woman T 
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 
Easy To Remember T 
Green Puke T 
Heros Are Hard To Find T 
Matrix, The S 
One Man Sex Party S 
Pandora T 
Punta Magna T 
Slaves, The T 
Sweeney's Special T 
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 
Texas Sucks T 
Ticket to New Zealand T 
Valhalla T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Valhalla 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Marcus Garcia and Matt King
New Route: Yes
Season: cool summer morings or spring/ fall
Page Views: 1,257
Submitted By: Marcus garcia on Jun 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Ben Griffin.

Description 

I sat under the shade of the tree below The Sweeney Route after soloing Easy To Remember, and I just sat there in a daze thinking about the people in my life that I have lost. I just looked up at the steep, beautiful, colorful aręte that shot straight up in the sky. It was like looking at a pathway to heaven. I was sitting in the great hall of Odin (a great legendary god). I felt the presence of late, great climbing partner Jimmy Forester and my late nephew who grew as a climber and person before being taken from us. Both of them fought the great battle of life. As I sat there, I could see holds to start appearing. I asked a good friend Matt King to help me put this route up. I wanted to put it up ground up, but it was so steep and nothing to hook. So I rapped in only to realize that after a short rappel I was out in space. So I heel hooked and basically downclimbed/ rappelled in to install each bolt. After ab crushing and bicep pumping work, we had all the bolts in except 1 at the start of the traverse. Matt tried to pull me in but no way. We had to climb Sweeney’s, and I tension way out left to install the last bolt as to make sure it did not take away the Sweeny’s adventure. 6 tries later each with a biceps and forearm pumping attempt we have Valhalla: where warriors who die as heroes and legends in battle dwell eternally. Thanks, Matt, for the work and support.

Location 

It is above Easy To Remember. Either start from the ground for the full adventure or climb up to the tree above Easy To Remember. Climb Sweeney's before making the mantel. Bust out left to the first bolt. Use long draws for the first two bolts on the traverse.

Rap the routes. We worked the route from the tree and when lowered down the belayer would throw out some slack to pull you in.

Protection 

Gear for Easy To Remember or Texas Sucks then gear for Sweeney's and then 5 draws to the top. There is a chain anchor.


Photos of Valhalla Slideshow Add Photo
Sussin' the traverse moves... thank God for permadraws!
Sussin' the traverse moves... thank God for permad...
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Valhalla takes the striking arete on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Valhalla takes the striking arete on the left.
Matt Pickren givin'er.
Matt Pickren givin'er.

Comments on Valhalla Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jun 27, 2012

It would be a grade harder if you did this climb in one pitch instead of two. That rope would feel heavy on those bouldery moves. Awesome route, Marcus. I can't wait to figure out that 3rd clip.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jul 2, 2012

This is a superb route. Right up there with the best climbing in Durango.
By Ben Kiessel
Jul 4, 2012

Great route!
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 16, 2012

Nice work, Marcus and Matt. This looks like a great line. Thanks for your contribution!
By DES
From: Durango, CO
Dec 2, 2012

Finally got on it; Great route! Harder than it looks. Thanks for the hard work getting the bolts in.
-Dan