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L'Olla
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Valga'm deu quin Patar  

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009

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Resting up for the crux of Valga'm deu....

Description 

This stout number is one of the longest routes at L'Olla and one of the better 12a's at Siruana. However, this technical line is quite sharp.

Make non-trivial moves to an unusual undercling pocket at the high first bolt. More tricky, thin holds lead to a horizontal break and a good shake. A few easier moves lead to a big jug at the third bolt, just below the crux. Make desperate moves between slopey crimps to gain larger pockets above. Cruise to the top of the wall & mantle over to locate the anchor.

Location 

This is the fourth route left of where the approach trail gains the cliff. Its also the tallest route on this section of cliff.

Protection 

~6 Bolts to hidden 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.


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