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Routes in Dragon Arch
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Dragon Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Enter the Dragon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gimme Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Iridescence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Last Shout T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lunar Tick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Toymakers Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Two Heads Are Better Than One T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Valentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Bob Irine, Rick Reese, Ted Wilson, Feb. 14th, 1963, FFA: George Lowe, Rex Alldredge |
| Page Views: | 2,885 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 22, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The main right-facing crack system about in the center of the Dragon Arch Buttress. Dragon Arch climbs are a bit gritty and this one is no exception. This climb starts relatively easy with a tough 5.8 move (protects with #2 Camalot perfectly), then progresses into a lengthy lie-back sequence. There were 2 additional pitons below the 5.8 crux. The belay station has shifted upwards by about 10-15 feet from the Ruckman guide, so bypass the three old pitons, and instead stop at the slung flake. The upper pitch is wide and hard to protect if you don't have the larger gear; however, this is where the climbing gets better. Wide crack on your left, bottomed seam to your right, gritty face underneath. Do you chicken-wing up, face climb, or come up with another way to climb this crack? Barring the gritty rock, this climb is good. If more people climbed it, it would vastly improve. hint hint. Cleaned up, this route would rate two stars.
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