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Valentine Arete 
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Wizard, The 

Valentine Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 2,376
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Dec 18, 2006
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MisterE leading the Valentine Arete. Will using t...

Description 

The beginning is a bit stout for a 5.8. Good warm-up.


Location 

At the far left end of the Main Wall, this is the route on the left side of the obvious arete, starting in the dirt clearing. Goes up the face left of the arete and right of the dihedral.


Protection 

Bolts & chains.



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Doing some confidence building on Valentine Arete after having to bail on an 11b on the main wall <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.goodlifephotography.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.goodlifephotography.com</a> <br /><a href='http://tylergates.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >tylergates.blogspot.com</a>
Doing some confidence building on Valentine Arete ...
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By Jimbo
Dec 26, 2006

Here's a fun variation to Valentines. Start up the arete of the 5.12 roof route then bust left when you reach the roof and finish on Valentines. Makes for fun 5.10 route. I call it the Valentines Day Manicure.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 6, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is truly a classic line. The rock is interesting with it's stripped nature and lots of edges. Using the sharp arete at the start with a few key moves low down. To me, it doesn't matter how hard you're climbing this route is fun, enjoyable and always worth a ride.

6 bolts - chain anchor

By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

Rather polished from traffic, but this is one of the first routes I ever finished instead of snivelling to be lowered from :)

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Oct 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route is a one move wonder and the rock gets less good as you go higher up. Just to the right of the chains i ripped off three brick sized rocks. Note also, the crack to the left shares the same problem, the cracks look good but the rock is fractured and soft. I've sent rocks off of this route twice, most of the pro is placed in pack rat shit and its not really worth bringing the cams.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The lower section is super stiff for 5.8, maybe especially for shorter people. I was shredded at the time, so its a little hard to rate it with my first experience. Probably a sandbag at 5.8, maybe 9-. Most likely no harder than a typical Lemmon 5.9, though I think those are sandbagged many times. Fun route though, well worth it!

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 1, 2009

Definitely not 5.8. More like 5.9.

By JayCap
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I agree this is stiff for 5.8, at least at the bottom, and would go 5.9. The route is clean and fun--didn't find any loose stuff on the route at all.

By Ben Venter
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun moves. A 5.8 leader might get worked by the opening moves, it's quite a sandbag at 5.8.

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

One of my solid 5.11 buddies would never fall off this one, but he might struggle and complain about it every time he gets on it. ;-)) I won't mention any names but I will agree that this sure ain't 5.8. If you do it right, it's easy 5.9. If you really try, you can turn it into 10+. Take your pick.