Valdez Overhang 

Interesting note: Record for number of times this route has been lead up and lead down continuously (without stopping at the top or bottom) is TEN!!!

M.S. holds the record. Any challengers? :)

I was on this route earlier this summer, and a small hive of wasps was living in a pocket somewhere around the 3rd bolt (just to the right). Although they buzzed around each person who climbed it, only one of us got stung.

The photo below isn't of Valdez Overhang. It looks like Jeremiah is on Double Chin (11c) (just before it cuts out right) or he is on Tomcat Tracer (13a) that goes straight out the roof above him.

Greg is right. That is not Valdez. It looks more like Double Chin, as Tomcat Tracer is, I think, a bit left of where the climber is positioned. Good eye Greg. Not only do you know every hold in the northern hills, but the southern as well. Ha!

Love, David

This route is nowhere near the Chopping Block formation. It is on a formation called Birthday Rock that is well southeast of the major formations in the Chopping Block area.

Brad! You're nowhere near the Chopping Block, silly! You are in Gillette! So, is Valdez Overhang in Monster then? Or is it at Sylvan Lake!? How about South Seas? Which area is it closest to? Oh, now I am all mixed-up. See what you've done, you big gerbil. :)

While Valdez is in the Chopping Block Area, it is not on the Chopping Block formation (The formation that contains Baba Cool, Twelve White Sticks, Meat is Murder, Puppy Stew, Going Up to Harlem with a Pistol in My Jeans, ect.), where you have it listed... Posting it on the same rock as Baba Cool might lead to confusion... and who are you calling a gerbil? I think Verdell needs his supper, you fruity little man!

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, this route isn't on the Chopping Block per se. It's at Inner Outlet at Sylvan Lake.

Brad, you should've seen Verdell the other day after you left. He was SOOOOO tired! He hadn't drank any water in...must've been eight hours, and he hadn't eaten since the night before. He was practically passing out!! He's funny like that--passing out when he's severely dehydrated. I just yelled at him to move whenever he woke up and he did...kind of--he twitched. It was funny. Anyway, this silly, fruity bastado is going to shoot some video with some Minneapolis freaks. Peace in the Middow East, Bones. And when it gets hard, well you know the rest. Gottagetitgoodmyman!

Hey Dan, I once ran up and down a ladder 32 times without stopping. Any takers? Seriously is this what you all have reduced climbing to in the hills? Lame!!! Not Anonymous Coward!

R. Oakley Asscherick

Yo, Asscherick!

You ran up a ladder 32 times! SWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!! Any climbing is good climbing, right!?! I'm really excited for you. You should seriously post some pics of you climbing that ladder, dude! Pictures and stuff help to motivate when the weather's this crappy.

• Rain, rain go away; come again on a rest day* (opera-style singing)

This route is an awesome route. The holds are sweet all the way up. I climb this route any time I come to Rushmore. Except the third bolt is getting a little loose. other than that the route kicks ass.

I find this route appeals to those whom are to lazy or uncapable of climbing 100+ foot pitches. The route is okay at best. Not a good lead for the begining 5.9 leader. This route would be rated 5.8 in Spearfish or Lander.

For AC submitted 6/26/05: Why the negativity? Why even take the time to write in if you gotta slam something someone else has taken the time to put up? There is so much good to say about this route. Why isn't it good for the beginning 5.9 leader? You say that but don't explain why. I think it's great for the 5.8/5.9 leader. Great route to practice downclimbing, great for a lazy day after 3 days of burly ripping (which is subjective, by the way), well-protected, great hangers on top, great for beginners looking to step up from routes like toy boat and boxcars, great for getting your head together if you're not used to leading steep climbs... Some of us don't have the head space to be 20 feet above the last bolt on little crimpers with 10 feet to go, but hey, we can encourage those who don't and admire those who do.

Not everyone starts off leading 100'+ pitches in the canyon or up in Lander. The vast majority start on easier, short climbs and work their way up from there. Climbs like Valdez are rungs on the ladder that we all have to step on to get to the harder, longer stuff. It takes all types to make this world diverse, and diversity is what keeps it interesting!

I would encourage 5.9 leaders to get up there and give it a try. If it's too short for your taste, do it twice.

Also, I see alot of people trying to compare granite to limestone. Why even try? They're so different... Let's be thankful that we have both in the hills and the freedom to choose where we go.

Eric

Eric,No negativity, just my humble opinion.I disagree with most of what you post but don't attack you.AC

AC - thanks for not attacking. I respect disagreement, but I believe it would be more constructive if you took time to give reasons why the route sucks. I am curious, and perhaps would agree with you and see it in a different light if I knew your reasons. To a new climber like me, a comment like "this route appeals to those lazy or unable" doesn't say anything except that you are bitter for some reason. Peace,

Eric

Eric,I did not say the route sucks. I just believe it to not be very engaging nor thought provoking plus it is very short in the land of longer pitches (Lead Fillings or Roadside Plum). Likewise in the City of Rocks,ID or Boulder Canyon, CO it would be rated 5.8. Ratings are ratings... Opinions are opinions! The Canyon is stiff but on a national standard Valdez is 5.8 when compared to other granite areas. There are some whom believe it is only 5.7. Expand your horizons and travel, travel, travel. Sorry to have a delayed response but I've been on the road myself the last couple of weeks.AC

This route kicks A**. The holds are massive and all the moves and clips a awesome.

This is a very fun route, but I really didnt think it was 5.9, seemd a bit easier that a .9 should. But definitely a must do!

very fun! lil hike and hard to find but go with someone who knows where this is and its weellll worth it! My favorite in the hills so far!

in my opinion i would put this one at an 5.8 or 5.7+ as a new climber about 3/4 years ago, it was my very first lead. ya, as a beginner it was intimidating, but as i have moved to spear and been in the canyon for the last year and a half, and there is virtually no T/R'ing, coming back to this yesterday was a walk in the park. top move is fun for the short guy. a good one for the beginning climber is waves over in the south seas area. 2 pitch, well protected, exposed, and one hell of a view