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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ray Ringle, John Steiger
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 889
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Another Catalina super-classic! Although both pitches have been lead as one, most people will do this climb in two pitches. Superb climbing on high-quality stone makes this a must-do route! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 Begin climbing in the prominent right-leaning crack that turns into an obvious undercling roof approximately 40 feet above the ground. Ascend this feature, turn the undercling at its right end, and continue up to a small belay ledge. 5.11-, pro to 4, 95 feet.

Pitch 2 Step up into clean cracks in a shallow recess, then continue up into the prominent left-arching corner. Look for an obvious way to turn the roof above the corner (be careful when placing protection in the highly fractured rock forming the roof), then continue to the top. 5.10-, pro to 3, 90 feet.

Variation Vahalla Direct 5.10 ***
An alternate start begins in the crack system located directly below the right end of the obvious undercling. A well-protected start over a small roof leads to a right-leaning section of crack that pinches off (5.10) 15 feet below the undercling of Valhalla. Originally rated 5.10R, this start is no longer runout due to the use of modern small cams. This safe, alternate start is very high quality, and a great way to climb all of Valhalla in one long pitch. Note: As of the summer of 2005 there was an "obstruction" directly below the 2nd pitch roof finish of Vahalla. Combining this obstacle with the dubious nature of the protection in the highly fractured roof, an alternative finish was climbed using one bolt to exit the prominent left-leaning corner that constitutes the upper section of pitch 2 of Vahalla. By leaving the corner 15 feet below the "obstruction", a strenuous hand traverse (protected by the bolt at chest level) leads right and up (5.10) to a ledge bearing a belay/rappel anchor.


Pro to 4.5".


See Squeezing the Lemmon.

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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 7, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Stunning route! With regards to the location of the route, check out the photoguide or pdf topo. This route and Business as Usual are among my favorites on this wall.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Two good micro cams (Metolius 0 and 00 I think) and a stopper before the traverse made it a lot easier to commit to the moves. Small stoppers and a brass nut helped after the traverse.