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Vacillation 

Vacillation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Melissa Lohre on Mar 26, 2009
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Jerry pauses to scan for a handhold

Description 

Climb crack with bulge 10 feet up. Two-thirds of the way up, move right to wide crack to top.


Protection 

Toprope



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By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Or to lead, bring a set of wires, and cams to a #1 camalot. Save the .75 for the top, as you don't really need it before then. Make sure to get your hand sequence right down low and a bomber nut, otherwise into the tree for you! Up high near the topout two ways to finish, the offwith crack direct, or by using "the secret hold" (not going to tell you where if you don't already know) which makes the finish a bit easier.

One of my favorite leads at the Lake!

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

lead this climb onsight...took everything i had to pull the crux move ( which i believe is only about 10 or so feet off the deck) in the dl guidebook climb rated as a 5.7 the falcon guide gave it a 7+ which i felt was def more appropriate...

By Erol Altay
Jun 23, 2013

Finish up the left face gives this great climb a sting in the tail at 10a. With super solid gear.