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BETA PHOTO: V-Slot (5.9), Junkyard Wall.
Though often overlooked (I did for years), this route is enjoyable and fun! A nice 5.9 trad lead. Climb, chimney, and jam varying-width crack through a couple slots to the top. (Arm-bars may be used, but are not mandatory.) Good position(s), nice variety, occasional jugs.
Oh yeah, be sure to "Ride the Rock Horse" near the top!
From Junkyard Wall proper, walk left past New River Gunks, Team Jesus, The Entertainer. Follow trail around and past two corners. Looking right, spot Stuck in Another Dimension (5.11), an intimidating crack with roof on the right-side of the face . V-Slot (5.9) is the obvious crack IMMEDIATELY LEFT.
Small-Med-Large. Anchors up (high) and left.
Moving out of lower slot.
By Mark Maier
May 26, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Does not require a piece bigger than a #4 Camalot, though you can use a bigger one if you have it. The two chimney sections are pretty secure once you get into them, with standard size pro at the tops before you have to pull out.