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Best in the Fall when the snow has turned to remnant ice. Start early to avoid rockfall from the freeze-thaw cycle. The crux is getting over the bergschrund.
Alpine trad rack plus ice screws.
Calf Burn in the V-Notch!
Long and sustained (V-Notch)
BETA PHOTO: Bergschrund left. Had to jump it!
BETA PHOTO: About that steep most of the way.
in the V-Notch
BETA PHOTO: Looks like snow but it is ice. Took screws in some...
BETA PHOTO: There is a large crevasse that you can not see at ...
BETA PHOTO: Alpine Ice 3
BETA PHOTO: V-Notch. It's pretty obvious which one.
BETA PHOTO: Bergschrund right
inch of new snow over ice? YEAH!111!!!!!
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c WI3
Climbed this in mostly ice conditions. Great long route sustained at 50-60 degrees. Bergshrund still had a bridge. Lightning storms chased us away from the traverse over Polemonium and down U-Notch, so we hustled over to Sill and descended down familiar territory. Was able to use the rock along the left side for many of the belay anchors, but it took some ingenuity and stance planning. 6 60m rope stretching pitches.
|By Greg Sievers|
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 28, 2010
the last couple hundred vertical feet on the summit rock was stout old-school 4th Class. (more like 5.7) I think it was Cameron Burns book and story that stated and supported how difficult the top was. Im glad we had a 1/4 rack and rope. 5-star peak.
From: THA WEST COAST
Mar 24, 2011
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c AI2
Just another classic ski run of the Sierra! Also check out climber's right couloir for a steeper/narrower/more offcamber ski run. Great line!
|By Some Random Guy|
From: San Francisco, CA
May 23, 2013
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c AI2-3
Made belays on the left side on the rock with small to medium stoppers for most of the belays. The final one at the top took a #1 Camalot and some large tricams. Rock quality sucked except for the last belay.
|By Josh Allred|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 13, 2013
Anyone try this in November? I am thinking of giving it a go when I am in CA Nov 25-29.