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Polemonium Peak
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Traverse from Mt Sill 
V-Notch Couloir 

V-Notch Couloir 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a WI2-3

   
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II British: MD 2a WI7 [details]
FA: 
Season: Usually Fall
Page Views: 2,444
Submitted By: BradLipovsky on Sep 6, 2009
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Ginger Follows the V-Notch

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Description 

Best in the Fall when the snow has turned to remnant ice. Start early to avoid rockfall from the freeze-thaw cycle. The crux is getting over the bergschrund.


Protection 

Alpine trad rack plus ice screws.



Photos of V-Notch Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Calf Burn in the V-Notch!
Calf Burn in the V-Notch!
Long and sustained (V-Notch)
Long and sustained (V-Notch)
Bergschrund left. Had to jump it!
BETA PHOTO: Bergschrund left. Had to jump it!
About that steep most of the way.
BETA PHOTO: About that steep most of the way.
in the V-Notch
in the V-Notch
Looks like snow but it is ice. Took screws in some places.
BETA PHOTO: Looks like snow but it is ice. Took screws in some...
There is a large crevasse that you can not see at the bottom.
BETA PHOTO: There is a large crevasse that you can not see at ...
Alpine Ice 3
BETA PHOTO: Alpine Ice 3
V-Notch. It's pretty obvious which one.
BETA PHOTO: V-Notch. It's pretty obvious which one.
Bergschrund right
BETA PHOTO: Bergschrund right
inch of new snow over ice?  YEAH!111!!!!!
inch of new snow over ice? YEAH!111!!!!!
Comments on V-Notch Couloir Add Comment
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By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c WI3

Climbed this in mostly ice conditions. Great long route sustained at 50-60 degrees. Bergshrund still had a bridge. Lightning storms chased us away from the traverse over Polemonium and down U-Notch, so we hustled over to Sill and descended down familiar territory. Was able to use the rock along the left side for many of the belay anchors, but it took some ingenuity and stance planning. 6 60m rope stretching pitches.

By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 28, 2010

the last couple hundred vertical feet on the summit rock was stout old-school 4th Class. (more like 5.7) I think it was Cameron Burns book and story that stated and supported how difficult the top was. Im glad we had a 1/4 rack and rope. 5-star peak.

By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Mar 24, 2011
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c AI2

Just another classic ski run of the Sierra! Also check out climber's right couloir for a steeper/narrower/more offcamber ski run. Great line!

By Some Random Guy
From: San Francisco, CA
May 23, 2013
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c AI2-3

Made belays on the left side on the rock with small to medium stoppers for most of the belays. The final one at the top took a #1 Camalot and some large tricams. Rock quality sucked except for the last belay.

By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 13, 2013

Anyone try this in November? I am thinking of giving it a go when I am in CA Nov 25-29.