BETA PHOTO: South end of parking lot, looking toward the south...
These sandstone boulders are part of the Ute Valley Parks large system of broken ridges.
I stumbled across this place when I was working on Tech Center Drive a few years ago. Based on the state of the rock and landings when I found it, it looks like I was the first to develop the area, but everything could have been done forever ago and just forgotten....
The boulder problems described in this guide only represent the current circuit problems. Lines that are dangerous, chossy or just not as much fun are not listed. The naming convention and lack of individual grades are only partially due to laziness - it should:
- help prevent getting caught up in "number chasing" (because everything's a V0 at the V-Naughts, whether sandbagged or legit),
- not offend anyone that might have had a true FA in 1970, and
- allow for easy expansion of the current list of problems.
The main ridge gets pretty big as you follow it northwest, so there are plenty of highballs on loose rock - Ive only done a couple of them. Cleaned up top-ropes could be interesting.
Make no mistake, some of these boulders are slabby and some are pretty small. Perhaps my affinity to the place is because it kept me sane at work, discovering fun, convenient lines....
Although its not a destination area, it's been great for checking out new rock, taking the kids, and its a great spot for a 30+ minute circuit (all of the original problems were established with approach shoes).
Just like the rest of the the area, the rock stability is questionable. Remember to pull down, not out. There have been many snake, lizard and deer sightings, so be careful and conscientious of the wildlife.
Check out the attachments and pictures for more detailed beta.
There has been a lot of mountain bike trail work through this area, and you can avoid the 5450 building and the NBC building using the new trail.
The new trail connects with Tech Center Drive just south of the businesses. Look for a long dirt pulloff to the west of Tech Center Dr. The trail is on the north end of the pulloff. Take the trail all the way to the Alpha Block.
(Using 5450 parking lot: park on the far south end of the Tech Center parking lot and head south down the hill. You'll hit the trail going west. Take it straight into the Alpha Block.)
They are normally accessed via the backdoor of 5450 Tech Center Drive (Northrop Grumman building). Park in the parking lot and either go in the front door and right out the back, or walk around the building. Then follow the cairned trail (2 minutes). You can also park in the lot directly north of the boulders and hike down (20 seconds). That method seems a little sketchy though.
Check out the Getting There Maps attached.
Climbing Season For the Ute Valley Park area.
Weather station 8.6 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For V-Naughts
BETA PHOTO: Connecting to the mountain bike trail from the sou...
BETA PHOTO: View from across the creek - from the single track...
BETA PHOTO: Google Earth shots, description.
BETA PHOTO: Getting There map.
BETA PHOTO: Found that if you follow it trail it takes you all...
Oct 20, 2010
Thanks for the time and effort, Than...will definitely be checking this out soon.
By Nathanael Hansen
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 21, 2011
My faith in the climbing community is restored - thanks for speaking up, Ben.
I openly admit that this might not be the place for everyone, but unless Andrew saw something sodomistic going on there, I don't think that description helps anyone.
- The lines were way too short.
- I didn't like that you could see the interstate from the cliff.
- I got frustrated that I got smacked on so many V0s
are much better, accurate descriptions that will still allow others to visit the area for themselves.
It's good enough for me that I've been back a few times after moving office buildings and still hope that by posting the area that others can check it out and enjoy.
(The crazy-short approach shouldn't be too much to invest.)
By Zachary Collins
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 31, 2012
Thanks for finding this place and generating photos, maps, and beta. I just scouted this area while on a hike with the doggies. There are definitely way more routes to discover...like some 'crack-only' routes on Kappa Wall?? Most of the landing areas are sketchy or non-existent, so it's a good thing that they're easy. Will be going back and sending these routes soon. Cheers!
Jun 1, 2013
I would just like to thank everyone that's contributed beta photos. I'm in the area for work and the ease of access to this site along really made my stay enjoyable.
By Brandon Bell
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 22, 2015
The trail through the boulders has been cleaned up and developed significantly since most of the photos. Mountain bikers have widened the trail and removed several trees.
Be aware of bikers in the area, or they might run into you on a corner....