Utter To A Scream
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Utter To A Scream is sort of a variation to a chossy chimney near the far right side of Cactus. Sound appealing? Don't let the chimney deter you, the variation takes you out on some fun terrain that is worth the start.
Start up the bolted chimney (fully equipped), and at a point where the chimney pinches down a bit overhead, look to the left for a bolt that branches off for Utter To A Scream. Tweak left, get set up, and launch through a bulge into a classic sample of Shelf holds. The good climbing is short lived but worth checking out.
This would make a good first 12a as it is straightforward, is well-protected, has a clean fall, and is easy to hang/remove the draws.
This is at the very far right edge of Cactus, just before you drop down towards Spiney. On the left side of the sunny, popular last wall you will see a bolted chimney. It starts in the chimney and then branches out left through a bulge.
Approximately 8 bolts, well-placed for good protection and clipping. Bring an extra couple QDs for the anchor.
Oct 19, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clean fall, I took it. But not so easy to hang or clip the draw in the middle of the crux, above the bulge! Certainly easy to hang it if you do the 9+ to the anchor first.
Oct 20, 2014
True dat, way easier to clip if the draw is pre-hung, or you pretty much have to climb past it - I must have forgotten about that when posting it, but I remember that pretty vividly now....