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 ADVANCED
(L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black is Beautiful T 
Dancing on Stones S 
Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior) T,S 
Easy Rider Crack T 
Forever Jung S 
Hopper's Hangover S 
Klein's Corner S 
Negra Bonita (Black Beauty) T 
Stinky Finger T,S 
Tijerina S 
Utopian Vistas (var.) S 

Utopian Vistas (var.) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Mike Howard & Jay Foley & Joel Tinl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 642
Submitted By: Mike Howard on May 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Making the traverse left at the 5th bolt along the...

Description 

Bouldery start up to shallow corner (small left facing). Traverse after 4th or 7th bolt 5.9) to the bolted arete. A longer draw may lessen rope drag at this bolt. Finish directly on the arete. Worthy variation.

Good option if you have no SLCDs to finish Stinky Finger.

Location 

Start just left of Easy Rider crack on bulge.

Protection 

9 bolts to chain anchor


Photos of Utopian Vistas (var.) Slideshow Add Photo
Final overhanging arete of "Utopian Vistas".  Shares finish with "Hopper's Hangover" <br />Andrew Burr Photography, rights reserved
Final overhanging arete of "Utopian Vistas". Shar...
Clipping the 6th bolt off the rail with the crux above. <br /> <br />Image courtesy of <a href='http://andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>.  All rights reserved.
Clipping the 6th bolt off the rail with the crux a...
Jeffrey on Utopian Vista
Jeffrey on Utopian Vista

Comments on Utopian Vistas (var.) Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.

If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.

The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be on. It appears as though it will be much harder than it is. Fun stuff.