|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Mike Howard & Jay Foley & Joel Tinl|
|Submitted By:||Mike Howard on May 1, 2007|
|Comments on Utopian Vistas (var.)||Add Comment|
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.
If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.
The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be on. It appears as though it will be much harder than it is. Fun stuff.